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    • Climbing runner vs sling reddit. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new.

  • Climbing runner vs sling reddit This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. 5kg (which felt easy to begin with) and now use 10kg with ease and without discomfort. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. But I won't go back to Vibedration or CamelBak ever again. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. But you get what you pay for. stretchy rope, that decelerates your over a much greater distance. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. I need a rope for outdoor climbing on mostly lime stone, slab routes and 'stairs'. Have fun and be safe my dude. As others have said, if the quickdraws could bump against rock then could be worth a quad for top rope. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. the knot might snag. Business, Economics, and Finance. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. The discussion over nylon vs. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. I actually haven't been able to use my fanny or sling at an event but I took the sling to the beach and liked it. I now have no pain when climbing or pressing on the pulley directly, so there's been an improvement. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Don't bring a hammer as a one size fits all when you really want a screw driver. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. 6 million pounds. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. There are few things for which i am certain, but i'd bet money there isn't an all around better system. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. 5x the single line rated load. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. 12c-ish plateau. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. I have yet to discover a single downside compared to other systems. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. Like someone else said, I am not a shill. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. 5 and the 9. 35oz to 3. Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. Context is everything. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. See full list on outdoorgearlab. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s I added Sling TV as an addition to my YTTV package because of the YTTV ESPN/Disney debacle, although now resolved, and enjoy Sling TV very much. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Crypto 1. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! Yeah, this is probably the best way. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. We'll see how each does for club and concert shows. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. ) A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. As far as streaming goes, it has been doing relatively well without buffering and PQ issues over these 2 weeks. Personally, I think the whole static vs. e. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Substitute the sling with a PAS system and it's even more practical. but on the whole is a very good brand, just gotta check if the specific piece is fit for your purpose. Sep 1, 2023 · At times, there was only a difference of a single gram between different slings, and even if you multiplied this difference by 10 (for the number of slings you might carrying on a route), 10g in the best case, or 190g if comparing the lightest to the heaviest (19g x 10 slings), is still only a difference of . On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. A harness + nylon sling + carabiner IMHO is super dangerous if you fall any distance before it catches: there's no give! In contrast, sport climbing involves falls onto "dynamic," i. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. 17oz, depending on which A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming Since then I've been doing 5 sets of 25secs on each hand, front 3 open hand, as my warm up on my bi-weekly climbing sessions. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Since i don't really have a climbing shop in the neighbourhood. ) Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments Moved Permanently. One short one for a 3rd hand when rappelling and a long length doubled around my waist as a chalk bag belt. A longer Prusik sling can come in handy in self rescue: tying load release knots, cut up for rap tat, etc. The rope length is also MUCH longer so 30% rope stretch gives a sizable catching distance. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. The document has moved here. I started at 2. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. When it comes to climbing, slings are the connecting link between you, the wall and your belay device – a symbiosis that requires both trust and a certain amount of technical know-how. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. And yes we are scared of falling. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. It may adjust when being weighted though. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . There's a decent deal on the mammut crag classic but i'm torn between the 9. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. So, it looks as though Sling TV will be a keeper for me. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Does anyone use a lanyard to attach themselves to the rock or do you use your rope (with a clove hitch), a sling with a biner, an ice axe leash or something else? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Mammut is a high quality brand and their gear is good, i find some features aren't well thought out, a glaring example being the bum zips on the bibs being a multi step operation to open and close and not possible in a harness. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. It's difficult to go and check the ropes out in person so i'm hoping to get some advice here. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. com Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. 8. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. The peace of mind is well worth the price!!. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. I most commonly see folks use one of these at a crag with 2 anchor bolts; in this instance you clip a carabiner into 2 loops at the end of your PAS and clip each carabiner into an anchor bolt. . And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). ps: i like to clip the excess sling on the strand i have to pull for the next rappel. Pick just the extension you need and no more. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be Since then I've been doing 5 sets of 25secs on each hand, front 3 open hand, as my warm up on my bi-weekly climbing sessions. Dyneema. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. kvnma vhbd bffnp kggwo iam ngtq ufnqg zbie sfbciw vox