Quad anchor vs sliding x reddit I bring my partner up, slowly with frequent breaks and pain grunting sessions as he forces his hands and arms to obey him against their wishes and he just powers through the pain and muscle spasms to Jan 1, 2015 · When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. ATC in guide mode, Grigri clipped directly to the anchor, etc. This is basically a double-length runner used in a sliding-X configuration. I'd like to hear your own feelings on what is the failure point of this anchor and why it's the oval biners? Personally, The sliding X is fine on two solid bolts, but then again, if both bolts are solid, why bother with a sliding X? You could use two long quick draws, a quad anchor, a masterpoint anchor, etc. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). 24 votes, 10 comments. Climb safe! Feb 2, 2025 · Quad Anchor Method. That means that if you make a sliding-x out of it with overhand limiter knots your sling is now only rated at 22kN * . A couple points IMO: I give the strands between the pieces a twist (like you would do for a sliding X) then if a leg fails it can't slip through A place where all fantasy managers can talk about all things related to fantasy hockey! Join other team managers and league commissioners to talk about league settings, give and receive roster advice, and any hockey news that is fantasy relevant. In a straight body concentric a person of average proportions pushes up with a force of around 115% of their weight, and more if done explosively or with arms overhead or added weight. A relatively common debate among certain segments of climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. Pre-distributed anchors like those made with an overhand knot put the vast majority of a load on one arm when they’re pulled off-axis. Depends on the type of top rope anchor. Because of this, sliding X's have no real advantage (except a very slight speed advantage(5 seconds?) if the second if leading through and you are indirect belaying all the time) and the big downside that the belayer might drop you. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. At least 5 other models don't have that problem for me. To create a sliding X: Clip a single sling to the carabiners at each anchor point. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, The sliding-X is useful for: - Equalizing two pieces of trad gear as part of a more complicated anchor - Equalizing two pieces of lead protection- Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top roping TLDR: Cordelettes are actually pretty bad at equalizing, the sliding x is much better. When rappelling you're effectively sliding down the rope. Hence the Having said all that, the anchor is the one place you've got full redundancy, so only worrying about wear on the anchor draws seems kinda silly. . Shock loading a sliding x isn't as bad as previously thought. " Reading it, I got it right away, but hadn't thought of it. The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. Posted by u/Scott_Korman - 24 votes and 17 comments Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. 19K subscribers in the Slackline community. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard two-bolt anchor. 2. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. There's a trade off between eliminating shock loading should one piece fail when using a cordelette, and equalization when using a Sliding X. I ended up flipping the plate over and hitting the smooth side with glue stick to get things to properly anchor. The BOS is twice the weight (70lbs vs 33lbs) but packs up shorter (36” vs 54”) and features better feet, webbing to keep feet from sliding, and additional anchor points at the top corners. 2021 . This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. This is the latest in the Climbing Anchors series, featuring all-color photos and detailed analysis of state-of-the-art rigging methods including: magic X's, stacked X's, the QUAD, the equallette, the double equallette, the Joshua Tree System for rigging TRs with an extension rope, and much more. honestly protection wise, the quad lock feels a bit more safe to drop The quad exercise can be done with a quad blaster - basically a very sturdy wooden board (needs to be stiff enough to not bend under heavy loads), so if you use a strap instead of the foot pads to keep your feet from sliding, you can also do Nordic curls on the same board, as shown here. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. I don't believe that 5. g. There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. Dec 1, 2023 · Two-Legged Quad Anchor. And, contrary to popular belief, neither are “self-equalizing” anchors (e. It doesn't self equalise, however this is not a big deal as you just set it up to take load in the appropriate direction (take both strands, pull in direction you will load the knot, pinch 4-6 inches above the knot and then tie it). For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. If you have good anchor material its very hard for your anchor to have any sort of abrasion (assuming two good trees and good tree pro). What's the best way to build a self-equalizing 3-point anchor, with all three points receiving equal weight distribution? [John Long promotes a 3-point equalette, but it doesn't seem to be distributed evenly. Sep 1, 2008 · I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. Make sure your door is sturdy enough for this before trying, put the anchor close to the hinges and stay on the side that makes you pull the door closed. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. The classic sliding- x system fails to create a fully redundant anchor as cutting the rigging material (such as from rockfall) in one location causes complete anchor failure. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With Sliding X . The climber uses a clove hitch on a single locker to anchor himself, and non locking biners for the anchors itself. The sliding x sling gets cut. 2) It can be difficult to clip another carabiner into the main point of a sliding-X when it is weighted. A sliding X would provide better equalization but would also shock load you pro to at least some degree should one piece fail. I have quad and banshee rig made of 7mm/11kN cord. One more thing to note: belaying direct off of the anchor (i. The usual way of clipping a sliding-X is to put a single twist in one of the strands, then clip both. 5mm nylon, rather 5. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. Learn how to tie it into a quad, the best two-bolt anchor setup in the universe i came from the quad lock with magsafe system. I agree. There is a thing called the quad which is "better" for parallel bolt anchors. And a sliding X, although better, might only achieve a distribution of something like 66% Moved Permanently. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments Jun 22, 2021 · I've collected some of my thoughts and comments from those threads and put them in this explainer to shed some light on the risks associated with sliding rigging systems (i. If you're setting up a sport climb for top roping where the bolts and anchors are on the vertical face and you can visually inspect the anchor at any time, then it's fine to use non-locking carabiners. A place for discussion, debate, and inspiration regarding traditional climbing, often referred to as… A sliding anchor with three points doesn't even theoretically distribute the load. Thread the cord directly trough the pitons/what ever and in case one blows, the knot might slip(and even absorb energy while doing so), but the chance of the piece pulling through the knot is quite low. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. The rope you're climbing on should be doing the stretching, a moving masterpoint under weight can allow strands of your anchor legs to cut against the rock. Two quickdraws with non-locking biners is a very common anchor set-up for that kind of thing. Solid AF. The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. A carabiner comes unclipped, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x catches as designed. The quad uses up an awful lot of cord unnecessarily so simply tying another type of anchor will allow you to extend it easily. Then they are good to go. Anything more is waste of time if you ask me, or more importantly, if you ask the Amga. Sporto anchor in a can. I also don't have any sport draws, so it works out. used it for a good year and just switched to pd fully. I have several pairs of different Vivos and only with the Ras I've had the sliding insert issue. Jun 22, 2021 · I've collected some of my thoughts and comments from those threads and put them in this explainer to shed some light on the risks associated with sliding rigging systems (i. Since then, the quad has increased significantly in popularity and use. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. 12kN. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Metal on metal is NOT a problem to worry about too much. it’s always a hassle. We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. Consequently, a sliding-x is commonly built with "limiter knots" which achieve redundancy while minimizing the You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. i like that the pd case feels a slimmer for some reason. 46 = 10. Here, you need to double your cordellete so that it has four equal strands of length. A sliding X rigged from a single 60 cm will have just as much reach as a quad build from a 120 cm sling, and a sliding X 120cm will give you more reach than any of the previously mentioned options. So you get a setup that can be used at home or taken Apr 13, 2020 · The sliding X is simple to set up: take a sling, clip it to two pieces, put a twist in one of the strands, and clip a locking carabiner through both the twist and the other strand. Clove hitch the crap out of it and super 8 the masterpoints for an all points, inter connected, super equalized enough, strong and fast anchor. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides… I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. It's better to understand the whys of anchor building rather than the hows. Easy to untie, etc. A cordelette with unequal legs has somewhere from 2. And yes we are scared of falling. 4 difference in load sharing as opposed to an unequal equallette which has 0 to 0. The rope doesn't move through the anchor at the top, it's just hanging there. I do like the additional features of the BOS, but twice the weight is a lot. Moved Permanently. This body position also allows most people to get much deeper than they can on leg press without the back rounding, leading to more stretch. ), the anchor will get 1x the force of the In the real world, it’s easier to achieve effective distribution with a true self-distributing anchor like a quad. I can't see the difference in performance between these $400 doors and the multi-thousand-dollar doors from Marvin. Oct 7, 2016 · I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. The reason it performed so well was the slippage of the hitches at bolts reducing the impact force in a fall. Feb 26, 2018 · I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. While a quad can split a load fairly evenly between two arms, a sliding X might only achieve a 70/30 split since the twist in the sling at the master point creates friction which puts most of the load on one of the two arms. This is a s elf-equalization anchor. 5 is a "high-tech" core, which would bring the strength up considerably. Looks like a tripled over sliding X. Alpine draw (single or double depending on bolt anchor spacing), clip bolts and extend sling, sliding X with a locker. Business, Economics, and Finance. or perhaps a climb All in all, 8 KN x 3 KN gives you 24 KN then 50% of that is 12 KN. Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. First and second pic here are common anchors. Things like sliding x/equalettes and all that faffy stuff just aren't commonly taught here. odds are you won't be yanking the anchor off-axis unless you are in the alpine, in which case you wouldn't be asking this question. adjust as load to the anchor changes direction (see Figure 1). The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. I'll keep this updated as long as I can. Used double sided tape on mine. If you plan on toproping lots off of natural anchors, get a 25 meter length of static rope, saves you mucking around with all those slings. An anchor component fails, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x still catches as designed. I want to… I also have read some on the unpredictability of weight transfer in the sliding x and also some with the equalette and quad although in my references less is reported. jg Jun 30, 2023 · Adjustable anchors. I use one 20 foot loop of amsteel and a whoopie of amsteel always for my parkline anchors and have never tied a knot. Crypto Cleaned, dried, retrammed and releveled (manually and with CR Touch), and it didn't get any better. When getting lowered, the rope is being dragged through the anchor with your full bodyweight on it so it wears out the anchor faster. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. We welcome posts about "new tool day", estate sale/car boot sale finds, "what is this" tool, advice about the best tool for a job, homemade tools, 3D printed accessories, toolbox/shop tours. Nice and efficient changeovers. Hi all, So me and my partners are about to head on our first major multipitch adventure--El Potrero Chico!--and I'm sifting through some approaches… 1. Photos 2 & 3: Disadvantage - If one of the bots fails, then the sliding-x anchor will "extend", which means the anchor point will travel down the length of the webbing until it stops, which will increase the impact force on the remaining bolt. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments To my knowledge, no one make 5. During all of this, I was really surprised by how much seemingly stupid and useless travel was occurring. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. with a knot, fold it multiple times if you can. a. An equalette works well as a self-equalizing 4-point anchor. -one more 120 cm sling to extend the master point. My hope is to provide a bit more comprehensive reference on the topic instead of the pieces of the conversation that regularly appear here. This is 100% a MYTH. Uses very little material. Why not use that? I don't see a reason for using 4 strands--it's just more stuff to mess with. This setup limits (catches) the carabiners in the event that one side of the anchor fails. Door anchor setups: a bathroom belt or bed sheet or towel etc. I like it since it's quick, easy, uses only one draw, and is perfectly safe. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. This setup is only for 2 anchor points. This sub is for tool enthusiasts worldwide to talk about tools, professionals and hobbyists alike. Posted by u/soupyhands - 6 votes and 139 comments Advantages and Disadvantages of the Sliding-X Photo 1: Advantage - When anchors are off-set, the sliding-x self-equalizes. If you put limiting knots on your sliding X then you will not necessarily overload the system in the case that an anchor bolt fails. Banshee is great for bringing up second when there's only two bolts at top but for TR I'd use only quad. for a two point anchor just clip the anchor on the two points with normal biners, lockers if you are having a TR setup for multiple runs, tie an overhand or figure 8 to make a redundant masterpoint, and done. Quad is a really useful tool for top rope in areas where top anchors are bolts with small spacing between them, otherwise, the V angle of load will increase the force on anchor. (Sans setting up a hauling system and belaying from above, there's no difference between a single pitch anchor and multi-pitch anchor) Here you go, an Amga video demonstrating a quad anchor. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. enjoy it a lot. You're taking big falls on the intermediate draws, and not usually the anchor, even when top roping, so worry at least as much about the rest of your gear, right? Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. 3. 5mm is an acceptable cord for anchor building, the strength and numbers just isn't there. Derek DeBruin . I don't find many multis with bolted anchors where I normally climb, but when I do, they are super quick. Quad anchors are mainly used for sp Apr 22, 2020 · This leaves a very narrow window when a sliding X can be of benefit. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. two strands, hence the “quad” moniker; see Figure 1). the Sliding-X and Quad). -4 oval locking carabiners for the master point(s). (Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography) Pro climber and guide Genevive Walker demonstrates how to build a quad anchor. (Removing your prebuilt anchor may feel odd at first, but it speeds things up, as the top climber is already rigged Stopper knots were tied and the anchor is well established with people climbing on it every weekend, which I attached a redundant quad anchor to. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. There are plenty of cases where a bolted anchor is designed to be anchored with two draws in opposition (most sport anchors) but not all are, and in those cases you need to have some understanding of what is necessary for an anchor to be safe. Two realistic possible cases here (things such as gremlins and murderous partners aside). Fast. Clip the sling into two bolts. Quads most often utilize two bomber anchor points and a pair of limiter knots to construct a self-equalizing masterpoint. The sliding X is a relatively simple way to connect two anchor points, while creating a system that adjusts to the direction of pull. I build sliding anchors with 2 bomber pieces and a third piece clipped to a one as a backup, so it's not really an issue for me. Basic, strong, mostly-redundant anchors are quick and simple to build with gear that will be reused (slings can be used for chockstones>spikes>extending gear etc). I've been using the girth hitch masterpoint most of the time the last few years. Feb 9, 2020 · See this video on how to build a sliding-x. It is very easy to forget this in the excitement of prepping for a new climb, but it will be very important :) Many MP climbs I have done rap down the opposite side of the climbed face or alternate route rather than follow back down the route. If you tie clove hitches at each anchor point, you minimize the inward pulling of the center strand and thus no longer have an American Death Triangle. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). I have included 2 Overhand Knots in this method to act as limiter knots. At the same time, the rope is more abrasion resistant. Things then get even more complicated when you use a quad to create a 3-point anchor, as the load is split not once but 16K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. A sliding X is dynamically equalized: if you pull the locking carabiner in different directions, the sling will shift so that both pieces are (close to) equally Moved Permanently. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Tie all four strands of the sling together in an overhand knot or a figure 8 knot on a bight. Apr 27, 2016 · Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos How To Build A Quad Anchor: 3 - His anchor is a quad: Climbing Tools: One Handed Clove Hitch and Munter: 1 - The best one handed clove hitch: I'm a bot working hard to help Redditors find related videos to watch. Not everybody needs a guide to set up a top rope dude lol of the equalette to be the quad, which is effectively a sliding-x variant that features double the normal number of strands of material in the rigging (four strands vs. Jul 15, 2020 · The realities of self equalizing anchorsThe terms “self-equalizing” and “load distributing” have often been used to describe anchor systems which are rigged in such a way that they have some ability to adjust laterally under load and align themselves with the direction of the force applied to them, purportedly maintaining an equal distribution of forces on each anchor leg. They prevent the anchor from a large extension if one of the anchor points fail. i also don’t quite like that i can never mount my phone on the first try. 12 KN is typically much more than the forces generated from your climber falling anywhere below the anchor. This anchor setup forgoes the extra clove hitches that allowed that anchor to perform so well. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. Using the Sliding X without limiter knots is no Rather than using a sliding X or a Quad I would tie an overhand knot at the masterpoint. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. If you must do so, make sure you have clipped the carabiner through the sling in exactly the same way as the original carabiner. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. I'd still use static materials for the anchor, but I would keep in your comfort zone. In short, anchors such as the Quad and the Sliding-X are frequently referred to as “self-equalizing” anchors, which is not entirely accurate. Mathematical data suggest the potential shock loads created by extension (even limited and minimized extensions) can be severe. The cordelette is the go to for >2 piece anchors, bolts or not. I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen poor anchors; Rigged the anchors together in a way that does not share the load between the two and Mar 3, 2025 · You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. The anchor in the DMM test was completely different, involving 3 clove hitches. Sliding X vs BFK is mostly sewn-sling-centric but you can grab about 8-12 meters of a 6mm or 7mm accessory cord and now you have the flexibility to create any type of anchor. 61 votes, 22 comments. Feb 1, 2021 · I hear this as a common statement when discussing a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc. As stated above, they generally don’t distribute the load equally , although research performed by Evans demonstrates that under a dynamic load, they distribute the load better than so called “pre "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. Crypto 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Jul 6, 2020 · I'm glad to see people are enjoying the benefits of this anchor. Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more complex to make. A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. A quad works well as a self-equalizing 2-point anchor. Static materials in anchors is super standard. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. ‍ 1. All in all, 8 KN x 3 KN gives you 24 KN then 50% of that is 12 KN. If you put the limiting knots in close enough you can make it so that the master point has only a couple of inches of slide, just enough to equalize, but not enough to cause a catastrophic failure. Take the American Death Triangle, for example. quad, sliding x, etc. Setting up Your Quad Anchor Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. 2 kN with a mean of 3. I really dont think you knots for parklines but that is just my perspective. Jun 12, 2021 · 1. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. You don't even need space on your harness for them--I clip them around the shoulder, biner to biner. I've installed several of the American Craftsman (now Andersen) sliding doors from Home Depot over the past 15 years, they all still operate fine and have had no problems. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. All would be perfectly safe. A quad totally shines in this application, the multi pitch with bolted anchors. This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate extensions. For flexibility, nothing beats sliding X. The equalette is a better alternative to the cordelette, but in my experience it is good on paper and tough in actual practice. Quad. Two quick draws are the simplest way to set up a toprope anchor, but it's still good to have a 120/240 sling and binders for anchor building just in case you come across some weird anchors In this case since the bolts are not level if you use two quick draws all the weight will be on one draw (still redundant, just not equalized), unless the It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. Research conducted and compiled by Thomas Evans shows that with static loads, LD anchors (LD= load distributing, AKA “self-equalizing” anchors) don’t distribute the load equally between legs. Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. Image showing some knots and tips you can use. What I do like about the Sliding X is the second can just throw the two slings over their shoulder, and leave the biners on if they'd like. The document has moved here. Which isn't redundant, and since it's such a long sling there's a ton of extension in the unlikely event a bolt fails. Even 3 bolt anchors with long slings get hairy with a sliding x. Quad is really useful solution for do-it-all anchor when weight or bulk isn't huge issue. 3 to 5. Jun 13, 2022 · The top climber removes his anchor tether, then the bottom climber removes the quad, leaving her personal anchor system attached to the quad and clipping the quad to her harness, ready for the next anchor (step 4, bottom illo). Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. All 5 cam placements in 2 different flakes, equalized with sliding X’s to a pair of master points in which I connected my quad anchor. For those interested: For _fixed_ top anchors, different types of metal will, over time, erode the anchor and cause it to break whilst it looks 100% fine. The home of Climbing on reddit. A little back story, I've been wanting to go outside and I've finally made some friends who want to go outside for the first time as well. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Use a strap and anchor point that can support at least 200% of your weight. Nov 13, 2014 · As far as the sliding-x with limiters, according to Mammut on their 240cm 8mm sling pamphlet, an overhand reduces the efficiency of the sling by -54%. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. notdiscovery hits on the importance of the rappel above, but something to add: always consider on multi-pitch how you will get down. And of course it's up to judgment when to use each both. The most prominent quad muscle, the rectus femoris crosses the hip joint, therefore is not put in stretch position by a seated leg press, but is stretched on the hack squat machine. Posted by u/Tradhappy - 4 votes and 10 comments Clearly here, the whole anchor is so fucking shit that the way the carabiners are facing is the least of my concern. e. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Anchors that self-adjust, like quad and sliding X configurations, do not eliminate extension. 1. 9 kN with a A clove hitch will reduce forces when you have a more complex anchor. This pre-equalizes the anchor and makes each anchor point independent of the other. I think the Ras fit the biggest on me so maybe there is some relation to size vs sliding insert, but I doubt it. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. However, with those materials, when they're knotted they lose 50% of their strength, vs 20-30% for nylon. And a sliding X, although better, might only achieve a distribution of something like 66% Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. If you plan on toproping lots off of bolted anchors, buy 6 meters of 7mm cord - a cordellete. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. For single pitch sport, I usually do a sliding x on a dyneema sling with 3 lockers. - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. ). PRE-EQUALIZED. Rope vs Webbing. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. You'll have to be educated on the possible anchor setups. Overhand masterpoint or an equalette are both good solutions. Looks like a variation of an tirolian anchor, which I use quite often on non bomber anchors, but with a 6mm aramid cord. I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. mtgc kwe eeicie amhubqm djvsiv taavsaf mkemmtx fqrd pllojj ulhpa