Dmm offsets reddit 3 and . You have to build an anchor. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. Same story if you're ever tempted by a set of offsets. 3 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 8x 60cm slings, 2x 120cm slings, 1x 240cm sling. Love my DMM dragons. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. With this rack can i scale most of the climbs around Norway. In addition to the walnuts and offsets Get some tri-cams! They are really useful in NC. 4 sets of wiregates at £30 each. 41 votes, 20 comments. 1 but DMM Dragonflies would be a good alternative. id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. 1-pink tricam. Certainly getting the Wallnuts wouldn't hurt. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. Normally my buddy and I share our racks to double our pro so I figured I'd ask! I fucked up the wires on my 5 and 10 BD stoppers. Pink and red tricams are the most useful of the tricams, others you can live without. One full set of Totems C4 0. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. I would pay retail for those nuts instead of buying BD nuts. Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. Right now I have most of the bigger sizes through a collection of BD and WC Heliums and have a couple smaller ones (one older DMM and one BD c3) but could use some more small pieces. I use them way more often than regular nuts. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). All kinked and insane looking. Irregular is better. 002A but never zero) and I noticed that the bar graph tries to go up as if was actually reading something (a tiny amount) and then it goes back, also the polarity symbol beside the range bar Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. I can imagine with a little experimentation you might find something that is great on your local rock type. Have heard good things about Metolius Mastercams, heard the new X4s are out and shiny but expensive. if you're climbing pretty straight up routes then sport climbing quickdraws might work (splitter cracks, any route that just goes in a straight vertical line), but if your route wanders at all, which most moderate multipitch routes do, you'll need to extend every placement. It takes a bit to develop an eye In val di mello my perfect (money not an issue) rack would be; Dmm dragon . Probably 2 more alpine draws 1. Gearexpress. I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. Probably closer to £1200, so €1350. You should be climbing with a partner that brings their set of c4s so it's likely that you will have doubles in the c4 range. I have bought a full set of DMM offsets and I’m now starting to look at cams. 00A, it's just in either "Manual 6" or "Auto" modes that it keeps changing the offset (between -0. Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. 2/0. And yes we are scared of falling. I started of with a full set of Wild Country Hexes, BD stoppers, and DMM Offsets. All of that in one big bag. Totems are good, but they only go up to 2, and some people don’t like the wobbly stem on the 2. DMM Offsets. 3, . Full set of BD nuts (including the smallest three sizes). 7 and down. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. Hi, I bought 3 of the small offset Z4s recently, and I have to say I love them so far. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). 25 votes, 13 comments. Posted by u/seal_eggs - 6 votes and 18 comments . 75 Wild country friends 1-4 Dmm wall nuts 1-11 or wild country rocks 1-11 Maybe doubles of the mid sizes of nuts if you do long pitches. For the peenuts I usually only carry the #4 and 5. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. 2K votes, 171 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Full set of DMM Offsets and Full set of DMM Peenuts Alpine draws, I don’t know how many I should have but I can make 6-12 to have a set. How many of you use a second set of nuts? offset nuts and offset cams might be a better purchase if you are doing anything with pin scars. 75 (so the 0. 3-. Posted by u/RyCalll - 1 vote and 25 comments Posted by u/Dank3509 - 34 votes and 68 comments DMM are using the "industry standard" 13. DMM does a nice starter set with small nuts, big nuts, offset nuts and hexes, I found one for about £150. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. 4. Its heavy on top of the other stuff that goes in my pack. 3 to 1 is helpful, especially for longer multipitches when. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. 5-3 camalots) and 5 nuts (dmm offsets) so the other day we went to rumbling bald in NC and did some mixed routes where we practiced placing gear but with the safety of there being bolts to clip too. u/EnvironmentalSalad40 A chip A close button. 75 sizes, totems are my go to (black to green). I also got rid of regular nuts when I got a rack of DMM offsets. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. A really easy to place cam and you just have so many options for flaring placements. A couple years ago i forgot a bin and ropegunned nutcracker with just those and a rack of nutsnow I take them up almost everything. I have the smaller sizes as well, but it's rare for me to use them. I… I originally bought offset cams exclusively for aid climbing and maybe it was a mental thing but I didn’t really take them on free routes. It's just not really true - they can actually be quite insecure, particularly in splitter That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. I originally bought offset cams exclusively for aid climbing and maybe it was a mental thing but I didn’t really take them on free routes. I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… Posted by u/joedeltron - 1 vote and 3 comments How many gear loops do you have? What goes on each one? Do you use a gear sling? Do you rearrange depending on the climb? Jun 19, 2015 · The DMM Alloy Offsets are nearly twice as strong as the WC Superlight Offsets (12kn vs. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 1 Friends and Zero Friends (Bomber and love using them, extendabpe sling ftw) I'm looking to get either DMM Dragonfly (0. I’ve read a ton of articles and reviews and even searched through old posts on this thread. 1. I cannot recommend the DMM micro nuts enough. Skip to main content Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 139 votes and 66 comments 25 votes, 13 comments. 3 . I use them a lot at eldo, lumpy, and most other granite. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. 8 cams (Bd . Dmm hb alloy offsets Dmm peenuts. They can be more difficult to clean though. Get app 1. Well either you're a prodigy or fearless, nice. And I really love them nuts. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 139 votes and 66 comments and after reading all the feedback, talking to some other trad climbing friends, and going to Bent Gate to look at all the options I decided the thing that makes the most sense is more Black Diamond cams, so I now have C3s in 0, 1, 2, C4s from 0. About 15 ft total fall (6ish feet above my last piece of pro, plus about 40 feet up already). 3 C3 from 000 to 2 DMM Walnuts DMM Offset walnuts DMM Peenuts DMM IMP's Tricam set black to red. DMM alloy offsets and brassies all day. / $30 wild country rocks 1-8/ $53 dmm offsets/ $464. DMM Peanuts as an option, since they weigh nothing. The document has moved here. Anyway, . I don’t have the Halfnuts currently but I am considering them for the 1 placement of every 50 that won’t take an offset. Or check it out in the app stores Offset nuts! I like the DMM offsets (and peenuts). The metolius Ultralight Cruve nut is what I carry, though I keep stealing the GF's DMM offsets. I've have an alright rack consisting of DMM Offsets, DMM Wallnuts, BD Stoppers, Cams from . my goal (obviously) is to get the best and safest equipment for the least amount of money. I use them way Nov 23, 2021 · I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. Crypto 11 votes, 19 comments. Have done most of my trad climbing on sandstone. 1-. Someone to teach you how to use this and smack you upside the head when you do poor placements DMM Alloy Offsets (double in the yellow - #7?) and the largest DMM offset brassy or two. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. After buying dmm alloys and peanuts, I stopped carrying the regular set and have never looked back. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments 23 votes, 20 comments. That we use when needed. Guys on Mountain Project sell new in package C4 starter pack (. BD micro stoppers and offset micro stoppers #3-6 each if the route calls for small pro BD regular nuts #3-11 if the route lends itself to stoppers (e. r/tradclimbing A chip A close button. Seems like a simple first project with scope to be enjoyable. I also use DMM walnuts and offsets. 1-0. 3 to 3, a set of nuts (dmm alloy offsets), and a set of 4 tricams. 2 and 0. Set of DMM offset nuts. I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts and seeing that dmm factory tour video. American that usually is aiding or climbing granite. The WC is more versatile but gives slightly less option in flare cracks, however with more sizes in the sets isn't bad. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Obviously they still worked and it doesn't impact anything really, but it was kinda wild. Very confidence inspiring and it's nice to see they make all their gear in house and not in a Chinese factory that I pretty much have your rack but with offset nuts, some smaller gear, and no 5 and 6. DMM offsets are some of the most amazing passive pro I have ever used. Ideal Cascade Trad Rack the DMM offsets 7-11 are my go to set around here, esp in Index. I paid retail for a full set of DMM offsets (alloy and brass) and #1-11 wallnuts over getting BD nuts at cost. Black Diamond C4 cams for the rest. 1) for $200 or I can pick up some Z4 offsets (0. 23 votes, 20 comments. 20 votes, 88 comments. However, a partner has DMM offsets and to get something different I got BD offsets and the BD's offsets are junk. The home of Climbing on reddit. 4, doubles for . So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango I only carry offset nuts anymore. Business, Economics, and Finance. Easy to find great placements where other nuts might not place at all. Dmm dragon 2s. I was able to get the hexes and stoppers both used for a great deal online, and then slowly bought cams one at a time when able or when deals/coupons came up. 3 to 3, plus a few C3s (micros) in 0-2. I like DMM stuff cos it’s 100% designed for British trad but there’s nothing wrong with other brands. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). Firstly, with 5 stoppers in each set of the BDs and DMMs, the size range for the BDs sort of begins with one size smaller than the largest DMM and ends with one size smaller than the smallest DMM so the sets compliment each other nicely. and to also get a set of nuts in the middle range but purchase DMM offsets or wallnuts. I generally prefer the brass ones to the Peenuts. Doubles of C4 in 0. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). 3) for $150. The DMM Offsets are also larger sized offsets in that the WC is only offset in its narrow side. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. One of those and some slings and screwgates and you could be set for most easy trad for like £200. It gives enough tapered placements for almost all situations. 5-#2, #3 I mainly climb around Boulder, CO but I can cover most climbs in the area with just my rack. 4. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. With DMM Alloy Offset you need to bring regular nuts because you don't have it. If your home crag is trout creek, you probably are better served with standard nuts. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. I currently have a pretty normal single rack-- C4's from . The smallest wallnut I usually carry is the #2. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Only downside is how easy it can be to set them a little too hard, lol. 10 votes, 24 comments. Readers to the thread without questions, climbing anything interesting this weekend? …. A couple double length draws (120cm). Eventually I'll get another . Sport draws. 7kn) and BOTH sides of the DMM have offset taper. We are hoping to get on some easy trad single and multi pitches. Thinking about picking up… Posted by u/denuted - 3 votes and 13 comments Steep and cheap. 4/. All the alloy offsets are fine to whip on. Some outdoor guiding services have their tried and true "guide picks" on their gear list, what gear do you find to be the best of the best in your… Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. I don't have much first hand experience of the dragonflys but a close friend of mine found them "too floppy" and traded them in for z4s 57 votes, 30 comments. £50 per cam puts £450 in cams, then torque nuts are what? £30? Those sling sets are £35 each, £12 per locker (x6), draws were probably £160, nuts are £75 per set, offsets about £45, nut key £10, pivot is £35. g. DMM Dragonflies in the three smallest sizes. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Offset cams are expensive. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre 29 votes, 54 comments. 1 Zero friends offsets (Super bomber I love them) DMM Torque nuts (They sit at home ;) ) Tricams (I love them lightweight and bomber) DMM Wallnuts, DMM Offsets, DMM Peenuts (Love them all! Didin't try the peenuts yet new addition!) 3 to . My rack is currently a mix of BD, wild country and DMM cams, and if I were to start from scratch now I'd probably go all DMM. Im heading to Red Rock in a few weeks for the first time. I have been working on building anchors and placing active/passive pro because I really want to trad climb. ) My standard that I usually bring is: BD Nuts. Camp Tricams, but only double up at the Gunks. I've been thinking about doubling my big cams with DMM Dragons from 00 to 6. Reply DMM offset nuts are GOLD but a bit expensive. I find I place offset nuts more than standard, but that's a personal choice. 3-4 equivalent)/ $10 nut tool Mtnoutlet. I like the BD Oz but this is totally personal preference. The DMM color coding is also more accurate in its offset size as a blue DMM is roughly the same size as a blue Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Personally, I was considering picking up the DMM offsets for 25% off… Business, Economics, and Finance. 5-3) for $225. In reality in the tiny sizes the details of the individual placement probably make more difference than theoretical cam mechanics. Alpine draws. DMM offset but set (7-11) would set you up nicely. They are a pain to clean though, and I wish they came in the same colours ass wc/dmm since I already know those colours! Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. Please feel free to add to the list. For cams, I'm a big fan of offsets as well, but it depends where you climb. 24 or so wiregate carabiners. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Also way cheaper than spring loaded cams! Looks like you might have a gap between that offset and blue alien, I use those sizes a good bit in NC. Sorry just read you were only looking for nut recommendations. 3 to 3 is the standard advice. Changing the range to "Manual 10" gets me 0. 5-3, and some BD Hexs. Crypto The standard rack I bring for free climbing includes DMM wallnuts, alloy offsets, and peenuts. Armatron in Red Rocks), or if I just want to carry more nuts/conserve cams. 16 votes, 27 comments. 4 to 3, stoppers, maybe a half dozen alpine draws, and another half dozen quick draws. I really like my WC Zero's for 0. 1/0. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a placement for a standard nut that won’t take a DMM offset. Aug 9, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset is kind useless in parallel cracks but very good on tapered. Not much to choose between them but they use the same colour coding, so when it's time to double up you can buy the other set, have a bit more variety and still having matching colours. DMM Offset nuts. £6 on the cordage. Might be interesting to make some funky nut or hex shapes, like extreme offsets or taper. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. My research has shown that black diamond camalot C4's are… DMM alloy offset nuts #7-11. Personally, I was considering picking up the DMM offsets for 25% off… I have a set of BD nuts, DMM offset nuts, BD C4s from 0. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. I've heard good things about the Dragons, and from what I understand the colors match and the ranges overlap nicely with the BD C4s. true 1. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. I’d rather not buy things twice so I’d rather spend the money and get the best stuff I can. Get the other brand for the doubles. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. 2 BD C4 . Good luck! Get out to Seneca and Old Rag too, they are grrrreat. Id go with either WC or DMM. wild country DMM - I climbed on a few for a day and I swear to god it looked like someone had taken a jackhammer to them. com has a bunch of gear 25% off including fixe aliens and DMM nuts. Get the big ones and the tiny ones (like DMM peenuts, e. Reasonable price too! Love the DMM HB offsets. 3 - 4 as a bomber starter rack. Posted by u/JimAnchower - 34 votes and 43 comments Cams from 000-4 and doubles form 0. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Hey all, sorry about the late thread. 2/. Hello friends! So I am looking to starting my first rack. Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and are fairly intuitive to place (to me at least). Posted by u/droznig - 5 votes and 22 comments They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. Personally I would go z4 + c4, 0. When in need my belay partner have a full set of dragon cams as well as C4's. A couple ropes. 4 to 4 X4 from 0. Single or double set, depending on length of routes, and how often you actually use them. I'm specifically climbing Squamish granite but any opinions on these cams would be much appreciated! Posted by u/un_poco_lobo - 9 votes and 26 comments Z4 + C4 is a great rack to have. 3-3 Wild country zero friends . DMM offset alloys and brassies are a cheaper option than a whole set of offset cams. For extending placements and anchor building. 75-2. 3/. Posted by u/Infinite_Toilet - 2 votes and 18 comments Well, in actuality, the Black Diamond offsets are quite different and unique in several ways (see pictures). Depending on where you climb you might need alpine draws for every placement. Additionally, nuts aren’t that much, consider getting some DMM offset wallnuts A friend of mine with a similar level of experience just got 5 cams (. 003A and -0. Crypto DMM HB Brass Offsets (sizes 2-6 I believe, but I may have gone 0-6) DMM HB Alloy Offsets (7-11) BD x4 . Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. I've not used the WC rocks, though I hear they are great. Dmm Wallnuts or DMM offsets are superior in my opinion to the BD nuts. I live in NC. 1 to 0. I like DMM wallnuts, and my gf is Welsh; what are the equivalents so I can begin the replacement… Pretty much always carry a set of DMM offsets. it's dangerous. For those that trust the reviews outdoorgearlab has a review of the black diamond nut and the best nuts of 2022. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. ). Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. If ya wanna lead there its gotta be trad. You don't really need them, but then again you don't really need cams to begin with for a lot of routes. BD offset micro nuts are decent though. 6-8 alpine draws (60cm). Offsets are less useful in rock with more regular joints like columnar basalt. 1 and . Apr 13, 2025 · If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. I… DMM calls their smaller offsets Peenuts and the larger sizes are just Offsets. 54 votes, 32 comments. 3-3 (with doubles in 1 and a DMM Dragon doubles my 2, see below) and X4s from 0. Apr 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. At the gunks, I started with black diamond C4 0. Nothing's too noob for me lol I just primarily climb at Devils Lake which has a no bolting policy. I'd also get a set of offset. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. It held like an absolute boss. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. 101 votes, 49 comments. The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. I’m on fairly moderate trad grades, 5. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. 5 camming angle as per the original Friends, which should in theory give more holding power for a little less range. My next pro to get is a #4, followed by second #3. I have been borrowing my buddies passive… 43 votes, 38 comments. Open to all recommendations and tips, as I am here to learn 🙂. I have a set of hexes, long pieces of webbing, BD nuts, DMM offsets, BD cams from 000-4 doubles in 0. In the . 75-2, sport draws, alpine draws, locking biners, slings, nut tool, prusik. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. Moved Permanently. Like all DMM gear they have a high breaking strength, sometimes twice to that of the competition. If you don't mind buying used gear in near new condition, PM me and I can give you the email of my guy. The DMM Wallnuts provide some of the offset functionality of the DMM Alloy offset, a curved nut that comes in slightly different shapes, with the added benefit of the wide range of sizes. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. 2 . A new leader prob won't appreciate them for the first year or so. Paying any more is unnecessary. gugxaicjntxtkenaqlojjpvvsqewmssnsrkkwvmjxunpxgecqi