Bambu ams reddit printing review bambu treats these gear stages as consumables since they literally consume themselves hi, i tried Draxes settings for flashforge flex pla and allthough it seemed that everything worked out fine. I am not an owner of any of the Bambu machines, but I have been considering the P1S as well. The Bambu Lab AMS IS Amazing. So managed to get this to print fine with the esun filament and a generous coat of the glue on the print bed. Is it the printer or the AMS system? The AMS system looks pretty sweet and something I'd like to get as well. true. I also printed those same containers for the silica beads and put them in my AMS in front. Then I decided I wanted a bigger print volume than either and got the K1 Max, and by this point (two weeks ago) they’ve fixed a lot- the cable chain no longer swings toward the extruder latch, and the extruder is revised in I think AMS is really cool, but don’t have an Bambu Labs printer (I have the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro). However, it also seemed to limit 3D printing to fairly adventurous tech-savvy folks. From the high-end X1 Carbon to the base A1 Mini Combo, Bambu Lab has Just curious. Want to change a simple bearing on a Bambu = a huge downtime, basically anytime it has a hickup and requires you to contact their CS. 4mm nozzle. It is a firm enough PVA to use with the AMS unit and I have had good success with this as a support material on prints with very tight overhangs where it is difficult to remove other support material. i guess they mean the AMS gear assembly, which has always been crap. For some enclosed Bambu printers in some environments, but not all enclosed Bambu printers in all environments you may need to open either the top or front door to manage print issues when using PLA, but by no means is this required. 7. Hopefully they start making it in more colors. Today I finally got some of the orange desiccant beads, put the pods in and within an hour it dropped to 10%! 20 hours ago · More expensive home 3D printers, including higher-end Bambu models in the P- and X-series, are "CoreXY" printers, which include a third rail or set of rails (and more Z-axis rails) that allow the My AMS Lite, on the other hand has had zero issues and has never caused a print to pause/stop. Nobody is competing with them right now. Harder than the normal 95A TPU, great price and really easy to print. Making 3rd party spools compatible for the AMS/AMS Lite are different like you noted, I find it's easier to add an insert into spools for the AMS Lite than it is to add rims to spools for the AMS. I’ve learned and confirmed from Bambu Support, that it doesn’t care which tube you use for what. Same here, but what has been bothering since getting my P1P, I noticed that print times are significantly reduced in Bambu Studio when selecting Bambu PLA Basic for example as opposed to Generic PLA, leading me to feel like I should be using Bambu filament just to save the print time. Not OP, but we got excellent results just using the stock bambu settings for our roll of PA6-CF. In the past, I'd be manually switching filament every print. The A1 can print anything the P1 can if you print in PLA / PETG - like 90? 95?% of us do. One review said ‘I use this for special prints in my Carbon X1 with AMS. Running the TPU directly from AMS lite and hoping for the best? The official line is no. The AMS needs another revision. If you own your business, think about taking a machine home with you for a few months before you bring it into your business. 04mm height, 290°C nozzle temperature 30% part cooling fan and using Bambu’s PC with a 0. The filament info suggests a larger nozzle (>0. Prints perfect now. Depending on what Bambu support says about covering this repair or not, I may be forced to do this mod which I think would fix my AMS problem. The only evidence is that these brands are sometimes shipping in Bambu branded boxes, meaning the filaments likely are made in the same building. Follow our rules and you can get tremendous support and suggestions from our community. 2 and 0. You can also tell by the flexibility. Lol I should clarify that I've been 3D printing for 3ish years now, mostly resin but some filament. Hacking/modding 3D printers is as much of a hobby as it is actually printing useful stuff. Print slow and make sure it’s nice and warm in there and it prints beautiful. I have my AMS lite mounted on top so I had no such experience. Aug 19, 2023 · The AMS is a gateway drug as far as multicolor printing. Yes it is faster then my Ender 3, but it is far slower than the X1C. If not, please dry it before printing. That's an advanced usage, to be sure, but a great way to learn more about how printing works and get better results, especially with non- This new A1 looks like it will be an awesome printer, and the new AMS lite solves the biggest frustration I’m aware of with the AMS as it looks like re-spooling is no longer going to be needed for it. Was difficult to get a print without jamming in heatbreak (finally got a print at 250 C, 0. It's a huge upgrade over an Ender. i did quickly in the studio try to choose Bambu pla vs generic high speed pla and it didnt change the time of the print job, so is it worth it ?? Carbon fiber filament isn't compatible because it's abrasive and will wear out plastic ams parts over time. The Bambu is more closed and not designed to be upgraded and tinkered with. Are there any good things that do the same thing but work with my printer? Samesees. We didn't print anything quite as large or flat, but the quality is amazing. Probably won't try it til we run through the PA6. its the same machine. Recently discovered my v1 AMS from Kickstarter has 1 of the roller supports broken at some point which was why I was seeing many filament feeding issues which led me to discover this mod. ; in my mind the P1S wins due to the ability to expand and do more down the line. 3 Fakespot Reviews Grade: B I've ran overture petg nearly nonstop the last few weeks, at first I was using the ring adapters but I noticed the second spool I used was slipping whenever the ams would try to rewind and it would lead to a jumbled mess of filament in the ams I had to sort out before the next print. According to leaked information from reddit, Bambu H2D will feature dual-nozzle capabilities, multi-color printing, and laser engraving, making it a highly anticipated addition to the market. Search for 'community spool'. Plus they have plastic spools so they work great in the AMS. The holes on the AMS hub are not numbered like the spools are. Afterward are a number of other filaments that users on Reddit have reported to work in the AMS. A spitter makes great sense, in that you can push whatever filament you want, for single colors. Unless you want to print with multi colours, then a Bambu Lab with AMS is the only one to consider. 54 votes, 33 comments. Also if you have a model that would normally need 5 colors and only have 1 AMS, you can use color changing filament to help fill in for that missing color. Trust me on that. com). I am planning to print some parts in WOOD PLA on my P1S / AMS but since Bambulab doesn’t offer that type of filament/ settings , I wanted to know… I've been extremely happy with eSun PLA+. bambulab. Usually you'd need a hardened nozzle too I've run ESun PA-CF and NylonX a fair amount through my prusa, both work fine. 2LBS)/Spool Company: ERYONE Amazon Product Rating: 4. all print good after a quick automatic calibration. The PA6 is discontinued, but there is a new version that is apparently compatible with the AMS which is super handy. I doubt we will ever get an official list unless Bambu does some sort of partnership or 'Works With Bambu Lab' programme. I can just queue up the next print, select the next color I want and go. Just got my P1P Weds and after printing a bunch of stuff (perfectly) with the included Bambu PLA, today I tried to switch to one of the Overture Matte PLAs I had been using on my Ender. For my particular needs, I don't see the need for the AMS. 3: Get an AMS and paint in Bambu studio. It's capable of drying 4 filament spools simultaneously, which would seem to be aimed specifically at the Bambu AMS but I can't understand how it could work since the AMS would not be able to physically rewind the spools. The only pro for buying from Bambu is that each roll has an RFID tag and the AMS Lite can read it so it's one more thing you won't have to worry about. Especially it’s super simple hotend swapout. I think it just gets upset with any amount of torque required. The other calibration tests I performed from Orca matched what settings were already set, so I just sent it after. 265 Nozzle first layer 260 rest, bed at 90 initial 85 rest. Fire is a great example. Cleaned out the nozzle and printed a calibration cube with turned out as normal. disregard that "gear assembly" thing, its even the same extruder. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. Any advice for best way to print it? Thanks Bambu X1C + AMS. Things got out of hand pretty quick, and after some fiddling I was able to narrow it down to the Overture. Welcome to the official community of Creality, the world-leading 3D printer brand. I haven't had any print failures in Sport mode, but I did have a failure in Ludicrous mode. ABS/ASA release poisonous fumes and should not be printed inside anyways. 4mm Nozzle, textured PEI plate (No adhesive), printer closed, freshly dried spool of 3DJake PCTG transparent (30€/Kg). You need to use the single spool. We need more AMS competitors. Unfortunately Prusa is nowhere near Bambu (in MK4 vs P1P/X1C) when looking at the printing process as a whole (so printer capabilities, quality of firmware, AMS vs MMU, whole software ecosystem). Dec 31, 2024 · I have a brand new model I am prototyping that uses both TPU and TPU for AMS, the TPU for AMS parts are far faster to print and work really well. If you don’t want to shell out or wait for the Bambu glue you can use Pritt Stick, it’s what everyone used to use for this issue. The first attempt, it got a clog and shredded my filament in the extruder. Bambu does not recommend the use of abrasive filaments cause there is a lot of plastic in the AMS and it can wear quickly. They also printed from the printer's sample files, so they didn't reslice for TPU specifically. The PVA I used was straight out of the wrapper (idk if that means it's dry from factory or the opposite) and indeed I have had two instances of it getting stuck. That said, the absolute fatal flaw, or perhaps design hurdle, is tip forming. Any ideas? Any of the Bambu printers and the 3d printing knowledge it sounds like you already have are going to get you to "prints without tinkering, most of the time", until you get into multimaterial printing. This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. However, when printing with the . P1S can print PETG, TPU and ABS out of the box, while an A1 can’t. I plan to primarily print engineering components from PA/PLA/PC (maybe some composites occasionally). I think this may meet the Reddit standard for constructive technical discussion. But if you could just save profiles from BambuSlicer on the AMS, it would be so much better. So Ranki works great for many things. I haven't done high speed TPU yet but just received a new Overture HS roll that should be able to run 7-10 max vol speed. My comment about the AMS and the waste had less to do with the amount or cost of the materials being used, but it had more to do with the sheer volume of the waste produced in using it. 3. I also slowed down the first layer speed and also the wall speeds. The other added benefit of Bambu filament is that they work perfectly in my AMS and are auto detected as the correct color. My X1C+AMS is my 8th printer. Pretty basic stuff. Jul 19, 2024 · With the stock desiccant packs plus individual 20g packs stuffed in the front voids in my AMS it has consistently stayed right around 25% while printing and slightly heated by the printer beneath it. Hello u/Optimal_Patience_111!Be sure to check the following. I don't really use the AMS for multi-color printing, but for support filament support or ease of switching between multiple colors without needing to load/reload my unit. A 0. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: ERYONE Sparkly Galaxy Glitter Red PLA 3D Printer Filament 1. That runs against the independent DIY vibe the seemed to really ground the original 3D printing movement. First test went well, i used the generic PETG profile and 0. I don't understand why the MMU doesn't just cut the damn thing! Mar 16, 2024 · However, I’d say the current champ for out of the box user friendlyness in an enclosed printer is the flashforge adventurer m5. What’s also oft repeated is that Bambu filaments contain unique attributes to allow for a higher flow rate and speed, so which is it? I'm also curious as there isn't many people saying much, and looks like they have a decent selection of basic colors , I've seen adapters for the ams but nothing really to throw it on the Bambu spool. Edit: (Although from the wiki link Darwinian999 posted below, Bambu seems to suggest you don't need to dry if the vacuum seal was intact: "Check if the package of the filament is intact. I got 2 printers (X1C) with 4 AMS each (I print a lot of stuff with a lot of dual-colors projects). I’ve had it “jam” with cardboard and plastic spools. TLDR: The P1S is fast and good. My last filament printer was a FlashForge Adventurer 3, which was small and slow, but it just plain worked. It’s enclosed to print PETG better, be able to print ABS/ASA that require an enclosure. ) In all seriousness though, it’s also a nice 4 spool drybox which I hadn’t known before installing mine. It works exactly as you would expect a printer to work without having to mess with it. My big issue right now is it's so humid where I live that keeping PA-CF dry, even in the AMS with desiccant, is a challenge. Not bad. The only thing I've changed for my . Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening Company: Noico Amazon Product Rating: 4. I've mostly run the Bambu PA-CF through the Bambu and it is pretty much the same. I've gone back to 0. Have fun in the 3D printing world with Creality! The carbon filter can also make it a bit health friendlier when printing some materials. 6 HF nozzle has been the VFR, infill, and infill percentage. The only downside is the slower speed of the a1. I have printed with mostly PLA. "Avoid using AMS lite to print flexible materials, including TPU, TPE, or absorbent PVA. Would repeated drying damage the filament? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 4 nozzle can very easily print 0. Regular glow in the dark filament is also abrasive, but bbu claims they got very fine micro powder to her makes it work with regular nozzle and also ams. I'm looking at the AMS mount files provided by Bambu. It feels like the A1 mini at $299 is like a “door buster” to get you to start looking but by the time you finish researching and upgrading you’re not really satisfied until you’re up to a P1S combo lol. I would like to know how is Bambu Lab X1-Carbon with TPU, and how is AMS with TPU? Thank you, The best things about Bambu printers is the high reliability and low maintenance as well as very high printing speed. 😁 Use the Stock Bambu Studio settings with the stock filament profiles and stock bed type settings. 50% is the recommended amount, but this can be increased massively. But it's way easier to parrot the same thing than actually provide good info. Bambu feels like a whole different ethos, sort of like PC vs Mac. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Tried to print this print in place v8 engine. 5mm) for this filament. Heck, my filament dryer doesn't seem to keep up. It's nice to have the ability to boost the speed. Reply reply Use the Stock Bambu Studio settings with the stock filament profiles and stock bed type settings. There are a lot of filament companies out there that make cheap and high-quality filament. If you want AMS (multi-color) or aren’t particularly interested in tinkering with a printer, it’s Bambu in a walk. Most of the time I'm switching between white and black, so the AMS completely automates this process. (I rarely did multicolor prints before and it’s so easy now I find myself looking for excuses to do so. meaning no more stringing and supports came out easily from the print and the heatbed the tennis balls i printed broke immediately in contract to previous settings i had which where default bambu pla settings and still bounce very well without breaking yet. an Elegoo Neptune? Or is the AMS a core part of why it's such a competitive offering In a video 4 months ago it said it still needed to have the ams compatibility upgrade has this happened yet? I am also new to 3d printing but have watched a ton of YouTube videos about anything 3d printing related but because I'm new I don't have more printers to add to the panda touch so the master slave thing is kind of not yet necessary for me. AMS has 4 motors and 10 sensors vs the 3 motors and 1 sensor on the MMU. An nozzle or extruder clog on the X1C is just pain since I must remove the ams to get access on the top Panel. Essentium 74D - from 3D Fuel - Too expensive at $75 for 750g, and only in black. This machine really impresses. tried the same spool (after drying again) in other slots and in my other ams units and couldn't even get it to load the filament without doing that thing Indeed, based on your feedback, using TPU (especially non-Bambu TPU) in the AMS could be problematic. Software and hardware. 😁 What Bambu Labs does is buys their filament from selected vendors including Hatchbox and eSun (possibly with their own quality control added so they reject whatever doesn't meet some standard they set?), and they put it on their own reels that have the RFID chip to tell the AMS how much filament remains and what type and color you loaded in. I'd buy a X2C XL in a heartbeat though. PLA, ABS, PC, ASA, Nylons, etc. Nozzles can very easily go higher or lower than the size of it. 6 line widths. Larger print area and enclosure to allow multilateral etc. The P1/X1 series can also expend to 16 total colors by combining 4 AMS units while the A1 can only handle 1 AMS. I then tried to print the v8 again, but it clogged again in the exact same layer. When dealing with tons of filaments, it’s a time saver. 3 line or a 0. It’s a single piece of evidence being overly extrapolated. A guy wolf something did a lot of testing and found bambu pla behaves weird at different temps and flow rates compared to pure PLA. It allows for automatic material switching when a spool runs out. Given my intent to primarily use non-Bambu TPU for printing drone mounts with the P1S printer, then the AMS might not be necessary in my case. So taking a break from the A1 Mini teasers and announcements, another product announcement caught my eye: the SUNLU Filadryer S4. One really nice PA-CF print, and a TPU print. In the early days, we thought, naively and bravely, that we could have a full color printer in 18 months that eclipses any ot You'd really benefit by getting a dedicated dryer that you can print from. I'm normally printing PP/PE in 70-90C chamber but I managed to print a whole Mendel (back ~15 years ago) in PP without heated bed and without heated chamber using few tricks. For home printing ASA/ABS rarely make any sense anymore. When I went to print, Bambu Slicer displayed a warning saying that PVA should be very dry and that it has a tendency to get stuck while using it in the AMS unit. Bambu PLA oozes less too. 2: Print the pieces separately, like this model shows. I just bought the P1P as my 9th printer. Nevertheless, most of the time, it still managed to print complex parts with large overhangs at 0. I drop the filament in and print without having to change any The bambu P1/X1 printers are like a voron trident but ready to print factory assembled for less money than a voron trident DIY kit where you have upfront print many parts. 1 retract, and 20% part fan). 9 line. How does one integrate the AMS Lite and filament dryer? Printing at 70% humidity is no joke. 5% RH inside my AMS with approx 1kg worth of silica gel beads as desiccant; the general ambient indoor RH ranges from 50-80% in my place -- I live in a fairly humid climate. Dec 22, 2023 · We got our hands on the Bambu A1 for review and tested the print quality and tolerances. This is a very small detail. They have the most robust slicer. When going from one print to another, I almost always have common used spools already in my AMS. Yes it is supposed to be a lot easier for those new to 3d printing but the same people don’t know to apply glue stick on the stock plate or keeping their plates clean (especially on the textured one) to ensure good adhesion. I woudl like to try some "wood" type filament, no idea the brand yet, maybe ColorFabb. Materials I print using an enclosed $699 Bambu Lab P1P (CF= carbon fiber): It's 3D printing, at some point you'll have to regardless of what printer you get I would like good customer support well, this point goes to prusa the ability to self-repair simple stuff this one as well. I was hoping the it would at least fit on AMS Lite but of course it’s an oddball size so still needs an adapter. Literally don’t modify anything and print some stuff! 😁 As to your last point, the P1S is really a “advanced filament” machine. Yes, it'll work on a P1S, you have to have the proper firmware version 1. The hub has no motor in it to push or pull filament. 2 nozzle doing multicolor the filament frequently has difficulty ejecting the purge poops properly. ") While most of the vase worked out very nice, the lower part with overhangs did not do so well. 01 IIRC, but check Bambu's site to be sure, and you have to create the profile from Bambu Studio under filaments, where you go to check all the filaments that you use, there's a new tab at the top for creating custom filaments that will appear on the AMS filament screen. I saw a guy on YouTube who was the using a 1mm nozzle to print a 7mm line with lol The sensible option that I could see Bambu doing is splitting the difference, you don't need 5 toolheads if you have an IDEX + AMS, you can pre-change filaments onto the toolhead sitting idle ready to swap out when you are finished with the current toolhead. . 75mm 1kg (2. I’ve spent more time designing and printing than I could ever before. I’m my ams I have dessicant packets in the back. To be a "high speed" printer, it is not what I was expecting. Plus just the simple ease of loading and unloading filament makes the upgrade price worth every single penny. Sad but true. Printing from the spool holder means pushing the filament through the hub until the extruder can grab it. The AMS is amazing for using support materials so that you can get a better final print when using supports. Apart from warping the elasticity of the PP makes the turbulence inside the nozzle crazy strong, you really want to print VERY SLOW, with as biggest nozzle you can. The AMS Lite is a an interesting animal. You WILL save money in the long term printing parts in house. P1S can print ABS, ASA and PA while the A1 can't. The AMS works well, and is definitely nice to have even for single material prints, but getting good results for multimaterial prints still Hello u/RMazer1!Be sure to check the following. " I have X1C, I cannot imagine printing without an AMS. I can just print now with most regular and engineering filaments (not true exotics like PEEK). Mar 21, 2025 · The Bambu Lab H2D, expected to be a flagship 3D printer, is set for official release on March 25, 2025. Would love any examples of where color printing value "clicked" for you beyond a very cool gimmick. If you can afford it get the AMS not just for multicolor but it makes loading and unloading spools so much easier. I'd also try using the eng plate vs a textured plate for TPU, since textured plates usually have a lot better adhesion in general (and that can be a negative with TPU). As it's got to be strong, is this enough? I feel like I should print it with 3 (or even 4) perimeters, and probably a 3d infill like gyroid or 3d honeycomb. Bambu can’t be expected to educate people on every detail that is involved with 3d printing. The painting is not amazing but it works and allows you to make tweaks easy enough. Review: Integrated 1080p camera for monitoring and time-lapses As mentioned before, there’s an integrated 1080P camera in the front left of the printer which can be used for print monitoring and also for generating time-lapses. Then I've read reviews about people having issues with printing TPU material. This is a non-issue with the . Yeah. Invested in a glue stick which solved the issue nicely. 2 mm Nozzle Not Compatible Your problem is abrasive filaments using AMS. It was at 10% before I started printing and went to 15% since my husband changed the filament out for me and didn’t close it. Bambu cuts theirs and the MMU tries to ram the hot filament into the bottom of the hot end/PTFE liner. Dry TPU is king. They all seem to print well but I'm only printing small parts at the moment, about 20x25x10mm. The print settings in the 3mf file seem to be 2 perimeters, and 15% grid infill. Brand - Type - Fit AMS - comments Overture - Matte, PETG, TPU - Yes (Not TPU) - slow down first layer and increase temp by 10 for PETG (cardboard spool) (MatterHackers and Sunlu PETG are better) As an owner of a Bambu print farm - GOOD. That alone makes it super attractive for small print farms as it eliminates so much hassle. Welcome to share your unique models, printing tips & ask for help. However, one of its most Noteworthy aspects lies We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've never needed to print multi materials/colors and don't see that changing any time soon. I realize the X1C is 3 to 4 times the price, but we are talking 5+ hours longer on a smallish print. The AMS for the P1 can be picky with filament spools, I’ll admit that. Color 3D printing is one of the few logical reasons that we, Bambu Lab, chose 3D printing as our product. Filament manufacturers often switch their spools without warning. I will use this printer basically the same- 10-20% PLA, 80-90% TPU. There are also a bunch of places where a flexible filament can escape so Bambu warns you about not using flexables. Actually the new flashforge 5m pro can do anything the bambulabs can do and I'd argue it's even better at printing carbon fiber nylon then the Bambu labs up until last year the Bambu labs was the undisputed king with the creality coming in second but now the new flasforge adventurer 5m pro is neck and neck with the bambulabs and it's levels ahead of the creality and its half the price of the Parts of the review are the same as the company's literature. I don't really have a reason for using it anymore other than it's in my AMS. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. I've been 3D printing now for 4 years and tinkering with printers since then. If the AMS Lite doesn't work, I might still get the printer without the AMS just for running TPU. then tried a petg/tpu combo print and it got about halfway then jammed at the rear ams feeder. Mar 29, 2025 · Bambu Lab burst onto the 3D printing scene just two years ago and has since managed to turn consumer 3D printing on its head. 6 nozzle can easily print a 0. and with the wrong surface it feels sluggish, it needs some texture for the old led sensor to pick up, ive only realized then how spoiled we got with I've ran overture petg nearly nonstop the last few weeks, at first I was using the ring adapters but I noticed the second spool I used was slipping whenever the ams would try to rewind and it would lead to a jumbled mess of filament in the ams I had to sort out before the next print. The print took 10 hours and 23 minutes using the printer’s defaults. When you look at all the available options for decent printers and then see a Bambu with AMS for the same or lower price it's clear why they've been able to suck up so much of the hobbyist (non-tinker) and prosumer market. Any of the Bambu printers and the 3d printing knowledge it sounds like you already have are going to get you to "prints without tinkering, most of the time", until you get into multimaterial printing. It's still printing (for another 10 hours for part 4) there's support in the Windows, where the feet go off the AMS and looks like all around the bottom. Setup: Bambu P1S, 0. 1 mm interface separation--which is where I'd print PLA supports anyway. It also keeps filaments I use frequently dry. If you go to filament page on Bambu website you can see Cautions for Use AMS lite Not Recommended 0. New here and super excited by the X1 (lovely that Bambu link to this subreddit!). Just because Reddit says one solution works, doesn’t mean it does and is supported. I currently have a bambu A1 and tldr everything works great when printing single color. 2mm standard X1C settings in Bambu Studio as a baseline and bumped the temps up. Oh and dry the filament which you have already done. Definitely going to be my new go-to filament. Bambu Studio makes printing easy too. this is what I printed to hold the beads. It can be tedious to change filament for each piece, an AMS would also make this easy as it makes loading and unloading convenient. While using 2 colors only (and because my layers are usually starting with one color and then switch to another one), there is almost 0 waste (and I'm not even using prime towers). for web browsing it lacks the navigation buttons ^^ its honestly just like a really cheap optical mouse, its manageable for doing linux stuff or navigate in windows, but for browsing it just lacks the navigation buttons which really bugged me. In my opinion bambulab found out that there is a huge market of users who like to print and not to tinker the printer. Yeah, I don’t see DIY RFID tags becoming a thing. I've been extremely happy with eSun PLA+. Also thanks to PLA+ / PLA tough / PLA meta / etc - the need for "stronger materials" is a lot lower then it was couple years ago. I could do with your thoughts about the AMS for my use case. One thing I have a hard time pulling from YouTube reviews is this: Without the AMS, is the value prop still there for Bambu A1 vs other printers e. yea thats legit, i don't know why the first time i fed the hs in it worked perfectly and started printing and completed the single material print. His TLDR was that bambu basic pla has a lot of additives, which is not necessarily bad because it prints great at the speeds the bambu printers print. That being said, using Windex instead has been so much easier. Amolen makes some GREAT color changing filament and prints like a dream. The AMS filament runout pause works really well and I am able to run spools down to nothing, swap them out, and continue going with no visible mark on the print so far. Sooo easy to print and I get a volumetric flow of like 36mm/s 3. There's an unofficial community generated list on which spools fit the AMS on the Bambu Lab Discord. Thanks! But you can get better results if you take advantage of Orca's calibration models and make your own custom filament presets (and never again use the X1C's flow calibration). But I see that you use Glow PLA with AMS lite. Along with my Bambu's I have 2 ender 3's, a ender 5 plus, an ender 2 pro, and 2 AnyCubic resin printers. To figure that out when I got home from work I went into bambu slicer and changed different settings to see why it was taking so long. My x1c needs ~10h while the a1 needed ~14h with similar settings according to Bambu Studio. The bedslinger design makes it easier to pull some shenanigans with printing TPU on fabric, too. Even at to interface the color swaps kill the print time. The AMS is enclosed though, so that's a plus. The print head is dragging on the infill of the print as it moves across the part being printed. g. If the print will have a large surface area, it may be worth printing something smaller first in a corner of the plate, to see how hard it is to remove. ] Layer adhesion is an issue printing multiple parts at speed using two materials (support). About the only benefit I see is that the color change can make it easy to know where to pry. I did see some using the AMS Lite with the Sunlu S4 which is quite an investment and doesn’t fit the aesthetic My idea is to just dry the PLA with the dryer and then put it back on the AMS. I print with the chamber completely closed on a high-temperature plate (or wham bam pex), and haven't experienced any clogs, warping, or other issues. Once it’s warmed up I start the print but immediately make it print in silent mode so it prints slow. Hi all. I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, so mostly using stock settings for PLA, so it is printing at the default Bambu speed. I had a print with ~400g petg. This article was published on our Blog (blog. Works perfectly with the Bambu PLA Basic preset, the spools fit in the AMS, and so far they haven't caused any hiccups or jams. I do print TPU often and always print it inside a Sunlu dryer. [Edit: The layer adhesion issue I mentioned in the following statement was a result of not purging enough material between filament change. For the second print, they were using TPU, which is notoriously stringy. Anyway, as it turns out I actually love the stuff. 4 nozzle which is what the printer comes with however if you want to print in hig The Bambu PLA Basic profiles print damn near perfect out of the box. Thanks for posting your results -- this is late to the party, but the lowest I get is around 14. So a 0. just read p1p reviews. Bambu is the most plug-and-play brand on the market. Most of the time I print at the normal 100% print speed and that is good enough, but occasionally I turn it up to "Sport" mode at 124%. 7 P1S can print up to 16 colors (yes you have to have 4 AMS units to do this but it's possible) meanwhile the A1 can only do 4 and I believe it's been confirmed Bambu will not be upgrading the A1 to ever do more than 4. gcqcgb sogc kwl hxjohu xtf benb dpzgjb ocskcw grkpy kmukd