Best scarpa climbing shoes reddit I can’t wear 5. Unless you are climbing 5. 5EU. I can climb about V2-V3s and a few V4s but it is tough to progress with the rentals. tenaya mastia’s color palette and design is just perfection. I'm looking for a basic, all-around workhorse shoe that leaves everything up to my footwork to get by on anything I throw at it (except for overhang). My shoes/boots are 10. 3 cam-sized cracks // The tongue’s inner and outer layers have come unglued, separating like a quesadilla without enough cheese, which is functionally inconsequential but aesthetically displeasing // Not a go-to shoe for steep terrain due to its stiffness and flat last P. Apr 12, 2024 · As a two-velcro-strap shoe, the Quantix does not excel on large toe hooks, where the velcro gets in the way. I expect it's the same in climbing. I am a size 8. I was wearing Millet Easy-Ups prior. 5/11 US. Don't stop me! Anyone here wear the LS Mantras. I have 4 pairs of shoes now and that's the least amount I've ever owned. What specific shoe models has these qualities? I feel like retailers and the manufacturers themselves tend to write that every shoe they make is good for everything. I have a pair of Muiras that I use for bouldering and I got a pair of TC pros last year and climbed in them enough to need a resole but I just bought another pair of Mythos and those are my favorite by far. Search for 'scarpa climbing shoe chart' for example, they do have complete info, so do Ocun and Red Chili. Hi all, Recently I had the chance to try the scarpa drago. There is the full length Hiangel iteration and the split midsole one. I think it comes down to the individual problem, and having both a soft shoe and a stiff shoe is a good idea. Merrell Moabs are a very close second. Looking specifically for Scarpa Drago LV’s! Action Movies & Series; Animated Movies & Series; Comedy Movies & Series; Crime, Mystery, & Thriller Movies & Series 691 votes, 162 comments. The perfect balance between performance and comfort, awesome for gym climbing. I'm looking at a medium-stiffness shoe that strikes a good balance between comfort and performance. Generally comfortable soloing up to 5. I am looking to get a more intermediate shoe. There is no beginner shoe. 5 for scarpas usually I have now cleaned the 6 month old pair of Scarpa Drago shoes that I so far have only used on the gym. Not all. if you're interested in a pair of aggressive scarpas, go with the booster. Vapor Lace is the shoe Mariacher designed as an improvement on the Katana Lace after moving over to Scarpa. 10 anzania vsc. 10 so 1) they’re overtuned (like buying a F1 race car for your daily driver) 2) they’re not really soft shoes like you’re looking for and 3) “best” is relative on The first pair tore up in less than 2 weeks. My first pair of shoes were the La Sportiva Miura Lace (Tan/Black). More info provided below :) Hey guys, I am currently looking to update my La Sportiva Mythos (been climbing through three pairs in the past few years). Scarpa Instinct - I have the VSR and it's my go-to shoe for just about everything. I use the Mundaka now since I wanted a softer shoe for smearing on volumes and it's an "aggressive" shoe visually but you wouldn't know it. Hey folks. But still, staying on small footholds in soft shoes feels different. They get this reputation of being the pinnacle of climbing shoe performance but pretty much every gym foothold is more positive than the feet you’ll find on an outdoor 5. I have similar feet to you and I have skwama’s. I think that the shoes that fit him the best are Red Chili ones. So far two pairs of scarpa instincts and several other shoes put up well with our washing machine, provided I only used 40°C and regular detergent + sanitizer meant for clothes. 10 and LaSportiva reign supreme. 5hr per week could I feel comfortable climbing in the S. Then, I got a more performant shoes for outdoor climbing: the scarpa Vapor, and then used my origin only for training. idk what it is about them they just look military grade yet sleek. What you need from a climbing shoe is just different from what you need from a walking around shoe. If you can try them in-person and decide they fit, great Seconding Tenaya! The Ra LV shoe is a bit more snug in the heel than the regular Ra, and is one of the comfiest shoes I've ever tried while still being intermediate. 5 years. After some research on the topic, I have order and tried the following: -La sportiva Otaki 41. My current shoes is Scarpa Drago LV, size UK 5. I have tried on a pair of Scarpa Velocity (the newer version) in my local gym, and it fits quite well. 12 or harder on gear, there is no reason to spend $200 on climbing shoes with the exception of TC pros which are worth it if you climb enough to resole em once per year. Another choice I really like is 5. Although there are arguably better shoes for high-end bouldering, for everything else, the Katana is ready to go. Very small LaSportiva Skwama (they're stretchy like socks Was thinking about the two brands today and kinda feel like scarpa is famous for their “soft smearing shoes” while la sportiva is famous for their “stiff edging shoes”. I would recommend something a bit sturdier for the grade you're climbing, like La Sportiva Tarantulaces. I own a bunch of models from both brands - la sportiva solutions, theory, skwama and scarpa instinct vsr and vs, chimera. Personally I’ve moved over to Scarpa when he did and haven’t looked back. So I have been climbing for a few months in rental shoes, and looking to get a proper pair. I can try my best - my experience with Scarpa shoes is limited other than the Chimera and Drago since Scarpa shoes just don't fit my feet and especially my heel well. 5 and they fit like a glove. After returning and looking for a different pair, there were 4 more used/returned pairs with all the same complaints I had. I have wide feet and the Helix have been the most comfortable. After 3 years of climbing in and a lot of steep projects at the gym, I bought a pair of dragos yesterday. S. So for starters people already size their everyday shoes differently! My climbing shoes are Scarpa Veloce's in a 36. Apr 24, 2025 · Best Climbing Shoes at a Glance. Personally - I’d get the best shoes you can afford to maintain. This was def. And some shoes are great for people with wide feet, but if you got narrow feet you won't really fit them. With this said, I would say that scarpa’s and the Red Chilis are the best (from his personal experience) Yeah i just checked as well. For me, with climbing shoes, there's no substitute to going to a store and trying on different models and different sizes. If I wear too tight of shoes (width) the sides of my feet and calves go numb. 5 drone 2s feel too small. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. My feet are extreme wide too and until yesterday I thought there is just no optimal shoe for my hobbit feet. Also idk who said that the dragos were good at edging, they're not bad, but compared to other shoes like solution comp from la sportiva or other stiff shoes from scarpa they are below those in that regard, overall still a very good shoe that I wear for almost a year. 5 street shoe and 9 in climbing shoes. any experience with these or other vegan shoes? i can’t lie, scarpa instincts look badass. I’d go either true to size or only a half size down max Edit: 9 is for other mad rock shoes. Your first pair won’t last long anyway. Scarpa is cutting back production. The best change they could make is to tell everyone how they will provide reasonable customer service. I am having a hard time deciding between the Scarpa Vapor V or Instinct VS. My local climbing store only seems to stock a lot of butora and scarpa. From my experience, as long as you're not getting BUFOs, you're fine. So far the best of the best is scarpa veloce. My current shoes are scarpa vs women's, which kinda fit in the heel l (I'm able to perform fairly tough heel hooks) but still too spacy for my taste. Shoes I’ve really liked : Scarpa Dragos, Solution Comp, UnParallel Flagships, UnParallel Regulus, Skwamas, Tenaya Indalos (current pair) Shoes I still want to try: Scarpa VSRs, Drones 2. You mentioned that you have narrow feet so it might have a bit of dead space in the front. However, I have found the Tanta are way less comfortable. Im usually size 6. I went from having blue feet to orange feet. Need shoes, been doing a good amount of bouldering and indoor climbing. You are getting to grades where aggressive shoes might help to a degree, especially on overhung stuff, but they won't fix fundamental issues with slipping off of/not trusting feet. The idea of a climbing shoe is that you want your toes together to provide more support on small edges. With climbing shoes there's no way I'll be able to buy online or just from recommendation. Alternatively we discovered you can soak climbing shoe in diluted vinegar for 30 minutes instead of scrubbing with a toothbrush and then wash off with water. Be mindful that depending on your comfort level with climbing/climbing shoes, you can adjust the size accordingly. I would try anything with laces over Velcro or slip in. Currently climbing at a v2/v3 level! I’ve been climbing for a year, and have bought: LS: tarantulas, katanas, Mavericks (new), solutions Scarpa: Vapor Womens Tenaya: Oasi LV (Yh call me a shoe hoe) I definitely prefer XS grip 2 rubber, after that it’s all about the right fit. This feeling continued for about 2 years, at which point I decided to get a second pair of shoes for bouldering to be a bit more comfortable. A damn fine shoe that’s worth every bit of $179 dollars. The shoe with the narrowest heel from LS is the Katana which fits but sits really high on my ankle, abit above my ankle bone & feels really tight and uncomfortable. Yeah, but what climber needs a pair of shoes specifically for climbing 5. So it's much more likely that climbers without shoe sponsorships just happen to buy Sportiva. (great shoes by the way) So I wanted another pair of instincts but they were out of my size so I went with a more aggressive more asymmetrical shoe for the steep projects The veloces are great for indoor climbing, so what would a good climbing shoe for outdoor sport/boulder be that fits similar to the veloces? Currently leaning towards the scarpa instinct VSR's, which I've heard are decent for wide roman feet. Get that. They need a TLDR: (1) Sensitive shoe - Scarpa Dragos LV; (2) Neutral shoe (in terms of sensitivity) - Tenaya Masais; (3) Edging/Stiff shoe - LaSpo Miuras VS (Women) Heads up for the long comment - I am a shoe fanatic (heels, sneakers, climbing shoes lol), and have been struggling for 4 years to find the perfect shoe. I'm looking to buy a good pair of climbing shoes for beginners! Here's all the information that may (or may not) be helpful: I've been climbing for 4 weeks and am climbing 5. For the price of Scarpa shoes you can buy several pairs of other brands that will last longer than a couple of weeks. If you have space in your heel for most Sportiva shoes and Scarpa shoes like the instincts, try to give the three shoes I mentioned a try. The re-design fixes the issues I had with the old design giving me bunions on my big toe knuckle. I stretched out my first pair of Evolvs quite a bit because I didn’t size them down small enough — wasn’t used to the tightness. You might also check out the Mad Rock Remora. So it's best to search for each manufacturer separately. I was wondering if anyone with similar problem and any good recommendations for shoes with narrower heel fit? Thank you!!! Shoes to consider: LS Katana Lace (all-rounder, medium stiff, not too agressive, best for outdoors), LS Skwama (all-rounder, softer, more aggresive, best for indoor), Scapa Instinct VS (similar to the LS Katana), Scarpa Instinct VSR (similar to the Skwama). If you're talking about the Drone (non-CS), than those shoes are stiffer than the Instinct. This is a welcoming place for those affected (or those simply wanting to learn more) to ask questions, share successes and failures, feel less alone, and discuss everyday life. I wear a 44 street shoe and size my climbing shoes down to 42. I'm enticed by soft slipper, no edge, and how comfy yet versatile they seem. I mainly wanted to stick with Scarpa because my last shoes were Scarpa but if there is another shoe you would recommend, please let me know! Thanks (: hello!! i’m looking to buy some new shoes after spending almost a year with my sweet scarpa instinct VS pair (size 37. 5, and la Sportiva Mythos in 37 (a 36. Its pretty detailed For context, these shoes are only for indoor climbing, currently climbing grades around v4-v5. And yes, that implies pushing your toe Someone looking for every little advantage they can get in trying to win comps or test their limits can get a meaningful incremental advantage out of wearing the best possible shoe for the climb, and sometimes that mean a downturned shoe. Scarpa Vapors were horribly uncomfortable for me, but other wide feet people have said Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; Scarpa Origin $155. To be honest I hate it when people say "go tarantulas" or some other shoes like that, it doesn't matter, you can even go with scarpa dragos the first time, if you go with super stiff and comfortable shoes your feet won't be ready for a sensitive shoe anyway regardless if you're a beginner or have climbed for a while, and if you climb really well those shoes won't help you when you send more I've been alpine climbing for about a year and always experienced severe pain when wearing climbing shoes. The first pair tore up in less than 2 weeks. e) Lastly, how downturned should the shoe be for vertical sports climbing? 2. 10 Asym's. The heel has the clunkiest god damned spine. become hooked on getting more climbing shoes than I need. I bought another pair there because it ended up being cheaper than shipping them off to be resoled. Typically they wear out quicker because they are a common "first climbing shoe", and newer climbers tend to wear out shoes quicker; when you're new, you're more likely to drag toes on the wall, not be as careful with foot placement yet things that which contribute to shoe wear especially around the My boyfriend has very wide feet and narrow heels. Roman Feet. La Sportiva mythos is one of the most popular comfy climbing shoes for like two decades for a reason. Except the toebox, I turned my feet into talons/claws and climbing felt quite painful after standing on holds for 20 seconds and saw blister forming on the big toe (left toe) Yep thats true. The one tier up like the La Sportiva Finale or Scarpa Helix have the same rubber a a $200 pair of Otakis. I don't want to purchase online as I want to nail the size perfectly. No one is telling Scarpa "I'm not taking your money to climb with the same rubber Sportiva uses. (43 for my trad shoes) TENAYA oasi's are my absolute favorite most comfortable shoe. They are still too narrow and not long enough, but there really isn't anything else. com Apr 16, 2025 · One possibility we tested is the Scarpa Instinct Lace, which has a similar downturn and toe profile but with a wider midsole and heel. I recently got a pair of Scarpa Quantics after climbing in Scarpa Vapor V’s for the past few years. They're saving them for the high grade, steep routes where their advantage is clear. Scarpa shoes in general may be pretty ideal for you. If you want Scarpa only, Instinct VS/VSR are good for edging and stiffer as well, especially the VS version. My best fitting shoe is currently Scarpa Instinct VSR in UK9/EU43. Aug 16, 2023 · The toe profile is slightly taller than other crack-climbing shoes on the market, making the Generator a second choice for 0. I am currently using tarantulaces from la sportiva and I'm not in love and wanna make the switch. Use the toothbrush to scrub the grossness off of your climbing shoes then wash all of the vinegar and grime off with water. Scarpa is marketing this shoe as an indoor climbing shoe targeted for beginner / intermediate climber. Overall depending on what kind of fit you want I generally size down 2 from my street size for la sportiva and 1 for scarpa. They hurt my feet less than any climbing shoe ive tried. Force Vs are some of my favorite shoes but Vibram Edge rubber is also quite soft. New shoes aren't comfortable like rented shoes which were broken in by 100+ of feet. The S is my second shoe. 5 would fit better but I wanted them to be comfy for long multipitch climbing). I am currently using the La Sportiva Tarantula. If you are buying new shoes, take into account the shape of your toes. Check it out on Backcountry. I spend most of my time sport climbing indoor, maybe around a 70/30 split of the time, where I engage in bouldering more often than top/lead climbing. Greetings! I'm mostly an intermediate-advanced (v5-6) gym boulder climber, and am looking for shoes that fit small/narrow heels. 5 (US8. I've had the Scarpa Velocity climbing shoes in the beginning in the size 37,5 (my regular shoe size is 36,5 to 37) and even though they are a size/half a size bigger than my regular shoes, I still experience horrible pain in my big toe I've been climbing for about 4-5 months now and climbed my first V3-V5 yesterday. As for rope climbing, my home gym is bouldering only, so I just don't have a lot of access, but I do indoor rope climb maybe once a year. Dont worry about what other people say about a certain shoe; if your comfortable and feel like you can climb for a couple hours or so in them, then they are the ones. So here I am again searching for new climbing shoes. Otherwise it's 95% chance gonna be a waste of your money, cause climbing shoes need to be fitted precisely. " But to get you started, here are a few good semi-aggressive intermediate shoes to try on: Scarpa Veloce or Vapor V, La Sportivas Skwama or Otaki, Tenaya Oasi. See full list on outdoorgearlab. The Quantics feel great, and the fit in the toe box & mid foot is just about exactly what I’m looking for. Oh yeah, both will dye your feet. they wont let you I've been looking at the Scarpa Instinct VS which seem to be pretty well reviewed and for me prob better than the VSR as I'm a heavier climber 100kg+. 1. But compared with the Vapor V’s, there i It's my go to shoe. Don't dare dip your feet in that buttery sock. for reference I wear a 7. Tarantulas are fine shoes comfortable (for a climbing shoe) while performing well enough. 5. Cover climbing shoe inside and out with diluted vinegar. so i've recently started climbing and would love a pair of good all around shoes. 5 or even 2 sizes. My favorite pure approach shoe is the Scarpa Crux, followed by the LS TX Guide. So I’m looking for a new (<$100) pair to carry me for now until I’m at a place where I can afford a more advanced shoe again. I take them off in between climbs. A few of the good brands include five-ten, La Sportiva, Evolve, Black Diamond and Scarpa, but there are many more. Also, the Mythos are not a super stiff shoe and climbing inside only, your shoes will last longer. YES! After buying 5 different pairs that I at first thought were a good fit, but ended up hurting so bad or slipping off after a few sessions that I couldn't even break them in properly, I finally found the Scarpa Vapor LV. They're great for heel hooks, toe hooks aren't too bad either, and w The Origins are fine for your level. When surfing the net, I often found posts from climbers with wide feet that can't find a fitting climbing shoe. i tried on the LS solutions (36) and evolv phantoms (38) at REI yesterday. It honestly doesn’t matter as long as it fits your foot well. Edit: Talked to a dude at the gym, tried on several different pairs of shoes before finally getting a pair of 5. eu has some classification, but it's not quite complete or super accurate. Street shoe = climbing shoe and then fit designed by the company works like a charm. I would not order scarpa from the internet if you have never tried their shoes on in-person. They didn’t have the women’s specific fit in my city so I got the men’s or unisex fit. Noting that some people that buy very expensive, very sensitive and soft climbing shoes to climb indoors potentially own more than 1 pair - and they aren't using these pricey shoes for every send. It was pretty terrible when I first got them, and some days are still not great. they have low volume option as well. the scarpa vapor v is a fantastic shoe for intermediate climbing! if you wanted to go the la sportiva route you could try the kubos, i’ve never worn either of them but i have friends who have and loved the shoes— if you’re looking for more aggressive shoes and you’re primarily gym climbing la sportiva has the theories which are an My bf on the other hand finds all of these shoes too wide, so these definitely aren’t examples of shoes for narrow feet. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. 5, my first climbing shoe is the ClimbX US8. I'm searching for a pair of vegan climbing shoes (don't judge me, guys and gürls); I'm a beginner with an enormous street shoe size of 38. I have worn Mythos and can tell you that you will notice an absolute difference once you buy a more technical aggressive shoe. Honestly, you'll just have to try on a shoe and see. Another factor I can think of - I don’t downsize my shoes. As others have said, try them on. Between these three pairs I have 98% of my climbing needs met between the gym and my local crag. Admittedly they have gotten pretty gross over the last 12 months and I have been told you don’t wash climbing shoes, there’s some discolouration on the top now and I don’t quite know how to fix it 😪 any help appreciated! People have to stop telling others to downsize so much. They just make the same shoe with slightly different tweaks and are unable to communicate how the tweaks matter. the women’s solutions comp also look dope as hell Depending on what shoes you want, REI has garage sales with barely used climbing shoes. My 9. Maybe you can head down and take a look around! Scarpa has usually fit pretty close to street shoe size, but I've noticed that some models in their latest generation of climbing shoes have been fitting on the small side. 80 decathlon sells dirt cheap climbing shoes. After 2 weeks with 2 sessions of 1. If you do get another shoe, the best thing to do is try on a bunch; the best shoe is the one that fits you well. The absolute baseline shoes that are sub 100 are fine but pretty meh and have inferior rubber. He also wears Scarpa instinct vs and he says that they are very comfortable for that type of feet and scarpa quantix (I think). The price tag is okay, however, I read that those shoes are I've basically tried all LV versions of shoes from La Sportiva/Scarpa/Tenaya and all of Scarpa & Tenaya shoes are too high volume for me, even the LV versions. I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? Shoes that definitely didn’t work: Sportiva solutions Sportiva zenit Tenaya mundaka Shoes that were meh. Comfort is not king. I have the Scarpa Vapor and they’re pretty true to size. 5). There’s so many: La Sportiva Tarantulace, Scarpa Origin, Evolv Defy, Black Diamond Momentum, Scarpa Helix, La Sportiva Finale, etc. If your shoes make you hate climbing then they are bad shoes. For 5. I'm still using my beginner shoes that I got from a sports shop called Decathlon. If you define slabs as friction climbing witch mini edges, then the Instinct VSR is a really good shoe as it edges well enough and smears great. 8 in the mutants; definitely would’ve preferred rock shoes and my laces blew about a week later but it’s doable. My wife when she went from Tarantulaces to Finales improved a lot because she had more confidence in her footwork and shoes. The Drone CS is probably around the same stiffness or a little bit stiffer than the I started climbing about a month ago, enjoyed it instantly and am now looking to buy my first pair of shoes, mainly looking for an all-rounder as I still need to learn a lot of technique. Also soft shoe can't rely on the shoe structural integrity, like the stiffer ones, and you have to get a good fit. Do not buy Scarpa! I probably have a similar foot to you. the solutions fit my heel a little too big (even after sizing down), but the toe box was pretty tight. And since good climbing shoes are hand made, there is even some variance in size between the same shoes in the same size stated on the box. The home of Climbing on reddit. 8s. 15 Scarpa Force V $256. 5 street shoe and wear a 37. Generally scarpa instinct, tenaya, and fiveten/unparallel shoes are my ideal fit. Best to try in the store and try climbing in it ie demo climbs. For example, I've had Pythons in 38. I had to retire my scarpa origin a while a go, and bought the tenaya Tanta to replace them while training. Im guessing they have some type of velcro Evolv or similar to offer which would suffice for these purposes. Sportiva makes top quality shoes, they're universally available, and generally competitive on price. I decided to try a slightly aggressive shoe rather than another flat sole and I loved the way Scarpas fit so I opted to try on some Vapors and Instinct Laces. This combo of flat or very slightly curved last, comfort fit and stiff sole is often found in multipitch shoes, so that's a good thing to look for. They were awesome except for the fact that the top front part of the shoe was caved in and the stitching would cut the top of my foot before I taped it up. Furias are just a little softer than dragos, but it's very difficult to get them these days. Tarantulas will keep you climbing. Seconding wide feet over “weak” feet. For more sensitive consider the LS mantra, this heel fits me really well and I think this shoe is more versatile than the marketing gives it credit for. I am about to replace my beginner climbing shoes as it was a hand-me-down (albeit it was a decent fit at that point of time) and its starting to feel loose. Some things to keep in mind are in the following paragraph. Pull, hook, and stick to every overhang with the unique shape of the Shaman. Section divider Ten Things You Need to Know About Climbing Shoes 1. Almost all approach shoes sacrifice comfort for a stiff(er) sole and a pointed toe box. the phantoms felt Imo the best slab shoe is the La Sportiva Speedster, followed by the Scarpa Drago if you define slab as mostly friction climbing like glaciated granite and discard credit-cart sized edges and cristals. Scarpa Helix, Evolv Kronos, Evolv Generals, Evolv Shamans. TLDR: I am looking for intermediate but comfortable climbing shoes for indoor climbing with slight/medium downturn and low/medium pre-tensioning. 10 siren or 5. climber and UL backpacker here. 5/42: they felt the best so far but still not a great fit -boreal crux 42. Then you'll have big climbers who like soft shoes and light climbers who like a stiff shoe. Part of the problem is many companies don't publish it. Super soft and super stretchy, downsize for 0. But the less experienced feet will suffer more. For context, I’ve been climbing for about 4 years on and off. Fitting your climbing shoes for comfort is like buying a car because you like the driver’s seat. Best Outdoor All-Rounder: Scarpa Arpia V ($169) Best Sport/Mixed Shoe: Unparallel Qubit ($186) Best Bouldering Shoe: Scarpa Drago XT ($229) Best for Beginners: Butora Rubicon ($150) Best Shoe for Steep Routes: La Sportiva Mandala ($209) Best Training Shoe: Scarpa Veloce L ($175) Best Pure Slipper: La Sportiva When researching climbing shoes earlier this year, i found out that la Sportiva men's and women's shapes are the same, but the sole rubber may differ on some models: the Kubo has a softer rubber like Vibram grip2 for women, and the Vibram edge for men, for instance. As a beginner really aggressive shoes could make climbing quite painful. Just wondering what the best shoes to get are. I am a male with a street shoe size of EU 38 (UK 5, US 6) and a wide toe box, yet a narrow and shallow heel. Seconding these as a beginner/intermediate. 5 or 43. La Sportiva Testarossa - One of the most second-skin-like fits on a shoe I've ever had. I have a narrow feel especially heel area. Read more: La Sportiva Katana Lace review. Started climbing about 4 months ago and bought some used Evolv Kira’s (second picture) Looking into Scarpa Force Vs (first picture). A lil odd. i own a pair of Scarpa Boosters and they're the best shoes i've ever tried, including 5. Comparing climbing shoes to street size is a poor comparison, it varies too much between people. Don’t be afraid to try on the more aggressive shoes because if you have a foot shape that matches the model it might feel surprisingly comfortable. Soft shoes should be wrapped around your feet properly for their shape to work. Practice your footwork and break these shoes out again when you're a little less green, they'll serve you well. You do want a very snug fit to get the best out of your shoes. I've owned my instinct vs for better part of 8 months now and I've started to get some holes in the tips of both shoes. I often see: this shoe is soft and therefore very good at bouldering, sports climbing; smearing and Hi ladies! I’m newer to indoor rock climbing and recently purchased a pair of Scarpa Origin shoes for myself. My street shoe size is US9. But Mad Rock, Scarpa, Evolv and Red Chili are more than adequate for your needs. they’ve held up pretty nicely after climbing both inside and outdoors. But they could go down half a size and still be comfortable. This pair fits well on every side except extra space at the heel. Same with climbing shoes. LS heels are too roomy, VSWs fit pretty good in the heel. Go about one or two times a week. 5) for my S, but it was ridiculously tight and I had to use plastic bags to squeeze into the shoe. Size 45 EU fit was awesome. Worked for a bit but not the best Original scarpa boostic Sportiva Katana velcros Scarpa instinct line and various models (only tried on, never climbed. I had scarpa helixes I returned. You want to find shoes that fit your feet, matching the type of climbing you do, and to an extend your weight. Any shoe above 50 euros will be an improvement. I just remember the instinct s model being catered slightly more for the wide feet folks. aggressive soft sticky rubber and good for all sorts of climbing, even slab. I have flat and rather narrow low-volume feet. And yes we are scared of falling. That's something you have to get used to. I've had my evolv phantoms 3 months into climbing and I for sure will never climb Daniel's v17. 10 hiangle, soft, stretchy and wide toe box. TL;DR: avoid Scarpa Quantics unless you want a gremlin sandpapering your big toe away Hello climbers! After two years of climbing I decided to upgrade my shoes from my loyal-but-aging Scarpa Helixes. I started using mad rock remoras almost exclusively 8-12 months back as cheap gym trainers. That is why climbing shoes fit so snug. After the third time climbing it managed to blister and bleed, the first time it’s ever happened to me after 3 other pairs of shoes. Avoid the typical, "This shoe can take a bullet," gym shoes, and get a decent pair, and its fine. The original Furia was wider, fwiw - I have a pair. 5 and 39 (rather comfortable) and my street shoe size is 44/11us). Just get some Scarpa Vapor's or whatever you can find easy and cheap that's readily available and comfortable from a propper climbing shoe manufacturer don't buy into the idea of "beginner shoes" it's a somewhat false economy, the same as "beginer/entry level football boots, you're paying less for a less good product) just get some comfortable The LV version are normally only available up to a UK size 8, which may be marginally for the OP, but in any case the regular tenaya oasi have a fairly narrow heel and lower volume toe box than scarpa and la spotivas shoes that I have had. Best bet is to go to your local climbing gym and ask for advice based on your specifications. Between the climbing shoes, 5. Bergfreunde. 5 similar feeling to Otaki but still no great fit Scarpa Instinct Vs (42/. They’re mostly shoes people have bought brand new and tried climbing in once. Users swears by the heel of the instinct, but it might be too stiff of a shoe for what you are looking for, especially when new. I'm exclusively bouldering and rope climbing in the hall, and was thinking about the Vegan Skwama von La Sportiva. com Hi all! I have a pair of Scarpa Vapor V’s and have been using bootbananas and nothing else when they’re not in use. I find they don’t need to be downsized much. Pretty much the only shoe that fit semi-comfortably, due to my wide, flat Hobbit-esque feet. I have spent the past month trying on >50 different models of shoes across 7 brands (La Sportiva, Scarpa, Evolv, Five Ten, Unparallel, Tenaya, Mad Rock) to find the ones that best suit my feet. They let me try the different types of shoes ranging from more comfortable shoes, to the more aggressive ones which provide more precision but are less comfortable. Nowadays shoes fit your feet better. most of what i've found is made of leather and i'm a vegan, so i'm looking for synthetic/ non-animal materials. I was told by a shoe guide in a climbing store that you should try on as many shoes as you can to find the best fit; it does not matter what they look like, as long as they are You need to try the shoes on or know what type of feet the manufacturer makes shoes for. And I'm Male. I'm attaching a link to the scarpa table so you can have a look to see what scarpa shoe suits your feet. Boot demos were a game changer for me when I briefly moved to a city where climbing was a bigger deal. But folks who can climb hard can climb hard in any vaguely reasonable climbing shoe. 10 for this reason. The second pair tore up in less than three weeks. Scarpa differentiates between classic shaped, square shaped and center shaped toes. My first shoes back in 2019 were tarantulaces, which I remember liking, but not sure if I’ll hate now/they’ve changed in quality over the years. It fits when i try to wear… Try Scarpa instinct VS or VSR(softer, more sensible shoe, with grip2 rubber instead of edge rubber). But for smaller toe hooks, the shoe’s flatter last (and thin swath of rubber) help it perform admirably. To clean the shoes I used lukewarm water and a mild non-scent hand soap, and scraped with a toothbrush both outside and inside (which I believe is the source of the smell), gentle on the microfibre part. I prefer top-rope over bouldering and currently am not planning to ever climb outdoors. 5, Scarpa Vapor Vs in 37. not seeing them mentioned is nothing to worry about, as Scarpa makes high-quality climbing shoes. When trying both shoes on I found the knuckle of my big toe dug into the top of the shoe for the Instincts. 0, Dragos LV Honestly paying more will not give you better shoes "for you". Less performance oriented shoes typically don’t have the aggressive shapes and materials which extend break in times. Is this a good choice for a "beginner" or should I look for something more forgiving to start with? My climbing shoe choice is largely based on what fits my wide toe box and shallow heel. Was pretty close to quitting with other shoes. Soft rubber, moderate downturn and 4mm thickness for added durability. They ARE a great shoe, BUT I do have a lot of pain on the top of the inside of the first knuckle of my toe like you circled. needed with the old style shoes where you had flat shoes with a full rubber sole. Some shoes I'm looking at are: Unparallel UP Rise VCS/Lace/Mocc Scarpa Vapor V Tenaya Ra It'll happen some day, just hasn't yet. 5 in womens street shoes and bought 7 (eu 38) in scarpa. The wide toe box saved my interest in the hobby. My regular shoes are 44-45 and my Skawma’s are a 42. 10 (Blackwings), Sportiva (Solutions, Miuras), and Evolv (Pontas). My forefoot is very very wide and so is my heel. For mountaineering, I have tried La Sportiva Barunste's and Scarpa Phantom 6000's, both in 49, and the Phantoms win. You want a bit of an arch for steep terrain. Hi there, I bought my first climbing shoes at Campers Corner, the staff were really helpful when I was a beginner back in 2021. Some of my Scarpas have a pretty narrow heel cup and others are a bit flatter. Climbing shoes vary in shape to accomodate different toe shapes, and those made for a different shape will fit rather badly in most cases. I wear a 10. But better shoes will teach you way more about how to use your feet. Like, I’d take a drago over a theory any day for smearing, and a solution over instinct VSRs for steep edges. Most people fit in either la Sportiva or scarpa, but not both. do you guys have any advice of good vegan shoes? i've looked at some of evolv's shoes as well as scarpa instinct vs, 5. The Scarpas stretched a little but not a ton. 4 in them and have actually crack climbed 5. That said, if you really want a stiff pair of shoes for long multipitches, boreal makes some good quality stiff shoes at a competitive pricepoint. Toes feel great, heel stays on! Typically people need a shoe that is solid on the bottom (thick rubber to support their feet as they start climbing and begin strengthening) and which also doesn't cause pain. And they are the best shoes I have ever had the pleasure of wearing, so comfy. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Nothing special just £40 climbing shoes. I might suggest a cheaper pair for your first ever climbing shoe just until you get a sense for what they’re like. Softer shoes do wear quicker, but as others have said it is a game changer. Typically, the more aggressive shoe will have a narrower heel cup. Background: Started climbing in mid-2019, lanky and light with equally long and narrow feet. La Sportiva Tarantula lasts forever - not the best rubber tho For hiking, approach shoes Keens are the best. This is a support sub for those with Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (all types) and HSD—diagnosed or waiting to be diagnosed. The reason why I blame LaSportiva for this widespread belief is because they are the #1 selling climbing shoe brand globally, with Scarpa being #2. 5 in regular shoes and am having trouble finding the correct size for climbing shoes. Also now comes with a bigger swath of toe rand. I know evolvs fit my feet so I stick with their phantoms for downturned aggressive shoes and their Kronos when I need a softer shoe. If you can find a velcro shoe that fits, I'd prioritize that for gym climbing over laces - it helps to be able to take them on and off. approach shoes are way different for the good and the bad. All in all. I went for EU41. Their customer service/warranty team are awful and rude and will not replace the shoes or refund me. 8? I have six pairs of climbing shoes that work better than any approach shoes. 10 I went up 1. I've been climbing on and off for the last 1. 2-0. 5): painfully Scarpa Vapor V (42): painful Scarpa Veloce (42): extremely painful My first pair of climbing shoes was a Scarpa Arpia, which I found to be pretty aggressive for me when I first started. Nov 17, 2023 · Here, we’ve compiled ten of our favorite bouldering shoes—and a list of ten things to think about when buying climbing shoes. But it’s still a climbing shoe, and still supports your foot in performing climbing movements. 5-1 and let it slowly stretch into my shape, best fit I’ve ever had. The quality of the shoes though are fantastic and I've been climbing in them for over 20 years. Do not buy Scarpa! Yep, sounds like OP has not down sized enough. Nov 11, 2023 · Scarpa’s answer to the Skwama, awesome for diverse sport and bouldering. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. . 9. On the other side of things, my hiking shoes handle all the situations I run into on an approach: rock, dust, mud, leaves, wood chips, roots, gravel, etc. Bought my scarpa origins and arrived yesterday. I have three pairs of climbing shoes I use regularly: a pair of beginner shoes that are sized pretty comfortably and give decent support, a pair of soft, aggressively downturned shoes and a pair of very pretty stiff moderately downturned shoes. Too bad they destroy my toe knuckles. My gym grades: White: V0 Yellow: V0-V2 Blue: V1-V3 Purple: V2-V4 Black: V3-V5 Red: V4-V6 I can comfortably climb the purples (V2-V4). All of that background to say If you had to recommend 1 shoe, you used every climbing session (2-4 times a week for me) for indoor bouldering what would it be? The helixes for multipitch or climbing with lots of smearing, and the more aggressive shoes for harder sport climbs and bouldering. irjgov chokv lgbe iuzo zqa otmekfmyh vwuqz moh askff awlraet zonbb uyr ppdzdi vrrylf oidrn