Best belay device reddit By that I mean, I’m fine with someone who uses an ATC(they have their valid use cases such as twin ropes/ rappels etc- even then there is the mega jul and smart alpine), but if they get all The Grigri is the best IMO. And it says they sell them in a set of two Flycatcher ropes and this belay device. Others include the Beal Birdie, 100% incorrect. The belay is more ergonomic and less constraining since the device is not attached to the belayer’s harness , and when the climber falls or weights the rope, the climber strand locks down on the brake strand and I would advocate for learning on the Jul2 - if you can lead belay using a Jul2, you should be able to lead belay using any tubular style device, should the need ever arise. This means that, in this configuration, it relies on a push button, an internal safety that won't allow it to unlock when cammed and Once someone has been belay certified on top rope and auto belay, staff do not check every person once they leave the ground… that would be intense and I guarantee that climbers would hate it. any help much appreciated! I would suggest getting an auto-locking belay device. Honestly I wouldn’t climb with someone who refuses to use one. Aug 6, 2021 · To put these devices to the test so I could shed insight on these questions, I climbed up all kinds of single pitch and multipitch climbs, indoor and outdoor, trad and sport, long and short. Even if you decide to stick to single pitch stuff, it's far A Figure 8 is no longer considered to be suitable for use as a belay device by most, but to be used only for descending. Whether you are belaying a leader in assisted-brake mode, rappelling down long routes with two ropes, or belaying a follower from above, this device performs every task that a belay device is ever asked to do. Like most people said, it can be awkward to learn but once you do it is amazing. From your own posts: took his hand off for a second bad belay, the end, device does not matter one bit. My personal mental training tells me, no matter what belay device I'm using, clamping down with my right hand will arrest a fall. she needs to use another locking carabiner for her belay device. 5mm ropes. They're super easy to learn, and use mostly the same "muscle memory" movements as any regular tube device. This is #1 for me. You need to learn how to belay with a class and test people on how to belay properly. There are alternatives that work perfectly fine for way cheaper than the grigri. There's a ton of devices to use to get out of the tree: Figure 8, ATC, Belay devices, and you can always just rappel using a munter hitch. The ATC Guide (specifically the guide), when set up correctly, is an "auto-blocking" (not to be confused with "auto-locking") belay device for belaying a second. If it’s more for occasional scrambling, then I would go with a super munter. Admittedly, it also handles most closely to a GRIGRI, and adopted familiarity is a big Sep 14, 2020 · The best belay device for beginners is the one you feel safe and confident using. The grigri group generally needed more reminders to keep their brake hand on the rope and to pay attention to what was going on. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. GriGri seems like a "safe" choice but stainless steel construction of Birdie could be more durable. Leave the guide mode device on as a personal anchor, grab your second's belay device off their harness an thro them on lead belay. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. It's nice for sport climbing, somewhat stiffer than the grigri but smoother than the Smart, it also doesn't block accidentally as fast as the smart does, but when it does, it's harder to unblock. All of these devices are less than half the cost & weight of a GriGri. As well as my gym has all pre placed quickdraws, should I purchase a set and if so how many (6 or 12?) Start with 6. Rather, the staff walk around and pay attention to belay technique, watch the cameras etc to make sure everyone is doing things properly. My final note would be, if you’re a pre-2009 Grigri user, to not go back and forth between the two devices, to avoid the belay confusion described above. I have spoke to alot of people that say the ATC is best because it is simple, versatile and powerful and then they have some sort of accident and they come back saying 'I will never climb with anything but an auto locking belay device'. IMO if you want to buy the best once, buy a grigri. I'm curious about the safety differences between these devices. It's just the facts. They all do the job and I don't really care what I'm using. If the grooves are too wide, the rope can twist and pinch in guide mode, or worse, actually change position and not lock at all. It's the best all in one brake assisted belay device I've used so far. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. Sure, it may not be as good as the specific devices, but having just one device that does everything reasonable well makes up for the learning curve or clunkiness. Feature wise it has it all, double belay loops, 7 gear loops, tons of padding and very comfortable after a long day. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The Cinch was actually the best belay device I've ever used in terms of ease of feeding rope but it's fault was that it was too small and awkward to hold. Many still learn on tubes with no problem. I am ready to re-learn lead climbing again, after 2 years of only top roping. All that said I personally recommend having your first belay device be an ATC (or another brands tubular belay device) as it is a cheaper, simpler device and it helps instill better belay habits (you can’t get sucked into trusting the assisted braking mechanism as if it is an automatic braking system like some newer climbers do) As a first belay device. Know the belay setup, how to tie in, and checks Must use a tube style belay device for the test (no assisted braking devices until after you have passed the test) Must be able to catch one unannounced fall from your climber The test itself is free. It's really hard to choose a belay device without using it first, though. Mago 8 and Scream are your best choices if you are going to be doing this often. Jul 29, 2024 · In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. It's easier to do safety checks on a device that other climbers know. Mammut Smart Alpine. But while climbing in the gym I use a 10mm rope. It offers several features that many will see as improvements over the standard GriGri, including an anti-panic handle and two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. OP wants to make sure he is belaying the best way possible after a year of doing it. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. Dec 5, 2024 · The Neox might be the best belay device for lead climbing and single-pitch climbing, but the similar Petzl GriGri is more versatile and remains our favorite overall belay device for its versatility. The ATC doesn’t have this. , Wild Country SRC) to apply braking force to a rope As I saw it there were 2 pretty good locking hms biners with crossload protection: the Mammut Crag Smart HMS (made specifically for the smart belay device), and the DMM Belay Master 2. It's built for ropes between 8. It's called "assisted braking" but it really does Auto lock every time even if the belay Eric drops the break end and the leader falls the device will immediately catch the climber on its own. the best one by a large margin is the megajul and smart alpine. Even if your belay lets go of the ropes completely, you'll lower at a rate that isn't going to seriously hurt you. My comment was driven more by my tendency NOT to worry about subtle differences in things like belay devices. you are attached to the rope with a knot. It’s important to mention that these kind of devices work best with dedicated belaying carabiner. All my climbing partners use one so it’s not really an issue that comes up. The Petzl GriGri+ adds security for beginner climbers with an “ anti-panic ” lever that stops the lowering mechanism if the lever is pulled too Points 1 & 3 are wrong. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. My advice is: Get a mammut smart, a petzl grigri, a beal birdie or whatever other assisted belay device you can find because with them you will be able to use with any carabiner and virtually any type of rope (8mm to 11mm) in any condition (Old or New) without having to worry if the device will actually work. The safest belay devices would be stuff like the grigri or trango cinch, but they sacrifice handling. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. Of the newer assisted locking devices the Alpine Up seems to be the crowd favorite on Mountain Project these days, but it's the same size/weight as a Grigri. If it doesn't rappel well, it won't lead belay well. My options are Petzl GriGri (3) & Beal Birdie. Also need some gear to top out like cows tails, extra locking biners, and belay biners as well. No, I don't have one. I am wondering if I need to purchase a specific belay carabiner to use with it. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. Allows for two ropes, so you can rap normally without having to block your rope. 6 in a gym while watching me over their shoulder. Climbed with him again 3 months later. The only oddball device that I can think of is the MegaJul, which still orients the same way, but the ropes load from the bottom, not the top. with other belay devices it's similar but for something semi-assisted like a grigri i'd just tie a Not over, but had a lead climber forget to take their atc with them after using it in guide mode for the followers a couple times. 1. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. The most famous of these is the Grigri by Petzl. Not carabiner sensitive, reliable, bomber, tens of thousands in use over decades. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The sling extends the belay device above the back-up knot. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. 7. Also its good to have a device that both parties are familiar with when multi-pitch climbing if swinging leads, and the megajul is not intuitive in it’s top belay mode. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. That way there is no muscle memory issues going back and forth from auto-lockers to tubular devices to a munter hitch. Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or I've mainly used GriGri devices for belaying, as that's what my gym provides. 0. I told her that 1. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!) A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. I've encountered this fairly often, especially when climbing with new partners. Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. anyway. When they go they take your belay device with them. The new click up is new. a locker attached to the mule loop and around the rope gives extra security. I learned to lead belay when someone handed me a rope, said "you know what you're doing", and setoff up a 5. Plus it’s decently heavy; not a huge deal but worth thinking about if you have a long approach or are already carrying a ton of stuff. Sold it, bought an atc guide, never looked back. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. Crypto That's a ridiculous reason. In general, a large, rounded, and smooth carabiner without any snag points doesn’t cross load much – but some are designed so it never happens. In my opinion best of geometric assisted devices on the market right now. My gym requires that you have an assisted-breaking device to lead, so I purchased a Mammut Smart 2. The german alpine club thinks the Ergo is the best device more or less. Devices like the BD pilot/Elderid Jul/Mammut Smart are becoming more common too, and are less expensive. In practice, you have the climber's weight on you and the trick is to lock off the belay tight first, and then make a backup knot. Please keep in mind though, that any of these brake assisted belay devices will require you to alter your belay technique somewhat to adapt to the device's design and characteristics to use it properly. If you do need to rap / belay, a thin rope is a double whammy since you get less friction from the device and it's harder to grip and apply friction to the break strand. Dmm pivot. It has been the standard for 25 years. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. 8 is right at the lower end for the ATC XP so you'll have minimal friction plus in a mountaineering situation you'll probably be wearing gloves which will make it even harder We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. There was very little info / reviews about the Crag Smart, and a bunch of good reviews for the DMM Belay Master, so I went with that. Also, I know that self-belay ALONE is inherently risky, if you get your ass stuck, or knocked out and hanging from a rope, there's no one to help you. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. Good question. Reply reply adeadhead There are other assisted tube style devices but IMO the megajul is the best because of its size/weight and its functions (assisted brake, ability to rap with two strands or belay on half ropes). The best belay device is the one you use correctly. I now had the idea to replace the prusik by a ct rollnlock or a petzl microtraxion tied into the belay loop and held up by a rubber cord in the chest harness. Here is how Black Diamond recommends you belay with their super 8 See my comment below, TL;DR- the recalls were because the original devices were built for safety backups to be used in construction and industrial venues, where they might catch a fall every year or two, and were built for a max of a few hundred falls a year, but were repurposed for gym use, where there thousands of falls per month. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device When I belay someone, I don't need to move my hand above perpendicular to the belay device at any time. 0 or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. As a belayer, your partner trusts you to catch them when they fall and get them back to the ground safely once they’ve finished a route. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. Note that climbers generally extend the rappel device about 12 inches off their belay loops with either a PAS or a knotted sling so that the autoblock can’t bump into the belay device and keep It from grabbing (same idea as a prussic minded pulley for rescues). when used correctly an ATC is a time-tested, effective device. A standard first belay device would be a tube. Unlike traditional tube-style devices, these gizmos actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. In the second instance, it happened yesterday and I've been told they removed the faulty device and will also send it for inspection to the vendor. I have a slightly different path where I do multipitch so I upgraded to a guide. However, I've noticed that some climbers prefer using ATCs or Mammut devices, arguing they're safer and less prone to mechanical failure. In defence of the belay master we use it when we're clipping kids into the rope for top roping for speed. 0 Belay Device’s assisted braking will give you a hand. The only people that still argue for them are those that think there's some intangible greatness about belaying using a tube or plate or anything but an ABD. Also, it helps that I don't OWN a gri-gri. the pbus is taught because it's the proper way to belay with a tubular device. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. Hopefully your partners will also have a set of draws. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Originally there was no spring on those. When I am lowering someone, I leave one hand on the brake strand near(-ish) the device and use the other to grab the rope low and open my brake hand just a bit and start feeding rope. Its just more expensive than the other devices. The GriGri can't belay two followers or rappel, and it's also expensive, with moving parts, which we don't like. Many of the primary belay devices people have suggested look good for this purpose, I will be giving those a closer look - it would still be nice though, to find a backup that can work alongside the primary belay device - e. Mar 16, 2011 · For long-suffering belay slaves, the assisted-braking belay device has been one of the most welcome gear innovations of the last two decades. Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. It’s worth repeating that these are all capable belay devices. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay How to choose the best belay device? I have asked myself that question and made a video with recommendations on which belay devices are best for which purposes comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. I eventually bought a steel oval for my grigri after I got bored of replacing belay biners every year. the smart alpine is also comparable - auto lock but the longer lever means easier feeding but more weight. Also, it's available on Expert Voice for $80 and is hands down the best bang for the buck. Best Belay Carabiner Extra Features To head off any saftey related head explosions, I have since read that self-belay with a gri-gri is a horrible idea, so I haven't been doing it. I have tried the double carabiner trick, and in my experience it does not offer adequate additional friction with skinny ropes like this. Salewa Ergo and that device never became popular anywhere. I do not know which specific devices were in use at the time, the gyms carry two models I believe. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. theres a reason why people STILL get dropped with grigris all the time right, dumbasses! I actually agree with just about everything you said, just not your wording. A nice time saving trick if youre swinging leads is to swap belay devices every pitch. ATC XPs are fairly common in my gym, it was also my first belay device. Belayer was my best friend, and had always been a solid belay. I am thinking of purchasing an assisted braking belay device - either the Mammut Smart 2. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. . As you can see, the configuration is essentially the same between rappelling and belaying, the only difference being again, one rope or two. It is the belayer, not the belay device, that matters. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. Frozen ropes? Twin ropes. This is important because if the Prusik loop gets drawn into the belay device it can get jammed, making it impossible to move up or down the rope, or it can actually prevent the Prusik from jamming and so rendering the back-up useless. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. To me the optimal use case has been in the gym; there is an angle range that works best for the rope to enter and leave the device, and outside it’s often a lot more difficult to control and keep an eye on it. Posted by u/Cragcloud - 7 votes and 11 comments Posted by u/IT-Command - 2 votes and 58 comments In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. 1–10. I use Jul2 indoors and outdoors on sport single pitch climbs. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. So the best handling belay device would probably be the petzl reverso 2 (with the loop for autoblock mode), but it doesn't have any breaking capabilities when you're belaying the leader or using a toprope. ATC-XP Guide has an added ability to be used as an autoblock belay device if belaying second climber from above. May 20, 2020 · The Gridlock is an innovative carabiner that is designed primarily to stop the orientation of the carabiner switching. Grigris are very common so an obvious choice, and they’re versatile if you get into outdoor and multipitch climbing for top belaying and even rappelling. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. There is a reasonable chance that a figure 8 can break the carabiner it is clipped into if it is not kept under tension at all times. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. for when I climb with a belayer who is more comfortable with a specific device, that doesn't automatically provide this There's a little bit of a learning curve but graphics on the device make it easy to check. If the price difference is not issue just get the guide, it'll weight few grams more and you might never use that autoblock feature, but if you do you don't have to buy second belay device then, those things last forever. I might be buying this thing straight off. The GriGri+ also comes with an anti-panic feature to support new belayers that have a tendency to open the handle all of the way, leading to an uncontrolled descent, leaving you looking like a rookie on the wall. Grigris can encourage lazy, and poor belay habits. Similar to keeping bolt end and rope end biners on draws separate. 7mm and 10. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Get an ATC and use that, learn to belay with that. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. 0 mm rope diameters and I would wager that it performs better on the thinner end of the spectrum. Here is how Mammut recommends you belay with their figure 8 devices. Sounds like its the best belay device in the world as long as your only using those ropes. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. The grigri is not the only belay device out there. For example, you'd still able to belay if you forget your preferred lefty device, or if someone hands you one because they prefer to be belayed with it. A Reverso and ATC-Guide will be oriented the same way on an anchor in guide mode, they're essentially the same device. I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. Pretty much the best ATC style belay device there is. Salewa also made belay plates with single slots, two 9 slots, and two 11 slots. I've taught people how to toprope belay on the ground, and after a handful of run through done the same. Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul is the most versatile belay device on the market, by far. I'd still say the grigri is better for safety since the smart wont always lock up(if the biner gets turned around when you're belaying), but overall, since it can do everything, it is an awesome device. The best device for you is the one you know how to use the best. Belay devices that aren't GriGri's aren't outdated. The grigri can put notches in the narrow end, which you then don't want abrading your belay loop when you're using an ATC. ) i own a figure 8, gri gri, megajul, smart alpine, atc and assisted atc. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. I've recently got the Petzl Rad line to try out as a glacier travel and rappelling rope for ski mountaineering. To me, a slot-type device is a slot-type device. The home of Climbing on reddit. There's also the Mammut Smart, and the Elderid Mega Jul. , Petzl Grigri 2) or the geometry of the device (e. 5-11 mm. 9mm diameter twin ropes like the Flycatcher. A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device. No details where it failed (within sight or at the attachment point within the device, no idea). A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. For belay devices, I am between the ATC XP and the ATC Pilot: The OP needs the safest device in this situation not the lightest or the simplest. g. Sometimes at the gym, I see these belayers who leaves their belay hand way on top of the rope. Absolutely love it, best device on the market IMO Has the assisted braking feature of a GriGri but at a fraction of the weight. Sep 20, 2021 · There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. 274 votes, 101 comments. I wouldn't choose to use one of the other devices unless I had double ropes. Yes, this is a bad belayer all around. And yes we are scared of falling. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. Business, Economics, and Finance. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. There's no arguing around the fact that an assisted braking device is going to be a safer belay device than a tube. They specifically caution against using any other configuration. Probably because they learned how to belay without the idea in their heads that the belay device would catch the climber if they were either sloppy or not paying attention. if you use an atc wrap the brake side under the device and pull it through the locker like it's an even more extreme lock off position then tie an overhand and then tie a mule to lock off the belay on the rope. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. That's true, and I'm not the paragon of safety, admittedly. This device would then be the main device to catch a fall while I could still easily descend with the cinch or reconfigure the setup to jumar up if I can't climb the section. My current gym now requires any type of auto locking device because humans make mistakes and get complacent. The SSS was invented for the munter hitch years ago before the plate belay devices were invented and after the hip belay fell out of fashion. Good catch, it sure is advertised as being specifically for 6. You can use it to belay with a standard tube belay device too as long as your belay loop fits in the snug bottom part. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. Otherwise just get an Grigri and quit sucking the dicks of the safety brigade. Keep in mind, there is a learning curve to Grigris (and most assisted braking devices, but Grigris and similar especially). Beginner climber (a few years it a very low frequency, 5. I find myself reaching for the Grigri when i know my friends are going to top-dog 5. Its a jack of all trades device, but certainly a master of none. Mostly indoor and single pitch outdoor. The guide that I was talking to the other day, he guides ice and rock, goes out with a GigaJule and a Kong Gigi placket. If you already own an ATC just learn how to use it, it’s a fine device. Posted by u/spartan-932954_UNSC - 1 vote and 45 comments This is the best answer. It works without any extra mechanical parts and you can just open and close the carabiner as normal. I love this device, it’s light, small, ergonomically designed and intuitive if you’ve used ATC before. 3mm. There was a beginner in the gym tonight who put the daisy chain through the same locking carabiner as her belay device. ATCs make better belayers, even when you switch over to a grigri. Benefit of the ATC is it doubles as a rappel device and it’s much easier to use. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Belayer fortunately held the brake strand and managed to control it well enough to prevent the fall, not sure how exactly. Might have to pass the belay device off to someone else, might not have experience with a new semi-complicated belay device, might have concerns about belay device functioning properly, rope size issues, weight, simplicity. Thankfully, the Mammut Smart 2. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Here are the conclusions. 6 at the gym a dozen times or for use as a backup self belay device to quickly switch over to rappel. A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). Click Ups are new and some people like them but they're probably about 1% of the belay devices being used out there with grigri's being probably like 60%. I would assume thinner ropes provide less friction in the device. You won't have a good feel for it Lol how is that at all close to the same thing? One is a completely outdated method. The device should work well for lead belaying. The grigri is over hyped. Several of them (Edelrid's Giga Jul / Mega Jul / Micro Jul, and Mammut's Smart Alpine) are two-stranded, and work great for rappels and two-rope belays. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Spare 'biner for a munter hitch is a better backup rappel strategy rather than having a spare 8 floating round. So they're less than ideal for a first device. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. On Edelrid's website, they state that it's designed for 7. You’re not at a disadvantage per se. Inattention is more dangerous than improper belay technique, for example the belay is chatting up a cute girl while the climber is running out a bunch of slack. 10 top rope range, looking to lead in due time) looking for some advice on purchasing a belay device and carabiner. Many belay-specific carabiners have different ways of preventing this. They either use moving parts (e. The spring was added later and it was a PITA. Better than a GriGri for TR solo since the rope runs almost straight through the device in the open position so if you put some weight on the end of the rope, you don't have to manually pull it through. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. I much prefer if my partner has an assisted braking device. I will always bring a grigri OR a megajul. The Grigri, Smart, Click Up, and Mega Jul are all going to be better devices. I can think of a few scenarios indoors and even more outdoors where its useful to be able to tie off the belay device around the karabiner which isn't possible at all with the belay master. Both of those devices have a similar belay motion to an ATC, and they are cheaper than a grigri. He pinched his hand in the ATC when we practiced a fall at the top of a route. I carry a Petzl Reverso 4 and a GriGri 2 mostly when I go out. Hi all! I'm about to buy a new assisted braking belay device mainly for lead climbing. In ice climbing and trad climbing using double ropes is the norm and requires a tube style. Sep 21, 2023 · In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. I actually think they are putting themselves at risk of litigation by requiring older technology. Everyone who uses my ergo seems to enjoy it. Most belay devices should have information on the intended rope size so I would double check that your rope fits. Gyms usually have the top-ropes doubled around the anchor. My first and primary belay device since I've started has been the mega Jul. 5mm, pairs well with any HMS locking carabiner, and lowers smoothly and securely even when it’s the 20th lowering of the day. What’s cool and new to 2024 in the climbing world in regards to gear and tech? Looking for ideas for a birthday present for someone who has a vast and well built collection of gear, but likes to upgrade to reflect best practices. I also think it’s more intuitive to understand the mechanics involved in belaying with a tube style device (although since you’re already familiar with TR lead belaying Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. How open minded and willing you are to adapt will dictate the ease of If weight is not an issue for you, I'd say this is one of the best overall belay devices you can get. Happened to me too. Jul 11, 2024 · Almost 100% of the time, the best setup for this sort of belay is an auto-blocking tube device secured to the anchor in guide mode. What this means is that if your second/follower falls, the rope will bind in the device on its own. ATC. GriGri's are great and all but that doesn't make every other devices obsolete. I find I primarily belay with the GriGri now, there is a bit of a learning curve to belay a leader, but once you have it down it's just as easy as any other device. Guide mode works great, no issues on multipitch. Long days at the crag can mean belaying fatigue. Between these two devices, which do you prefer? On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. The Trango Cinch is Trango's old assisted belay device. A new small rope will always be fast, those are treated to be more durable so they’re a bit shiny? Anyway it’ll just lower really fast. needs to be taut so that she can't get lifted and 2. You're using a lot of absolutes. A simple overhand with a biner might be OK, but it will slip through until tight and be difficult to loosen later. No one has a really good feel for how it will last and wear. The safeguard is so popular because it can be used like a prussic/ropeman1 and also allows you rappel down at anytime if something went wrong, instead of having to switch over to a separate device. He fucked up bad. May 28, 2024 · Like its predecessor, the GriGri+ prevents rope slippage, allows you to haul, and belay with an assist without batting an eye. Sort of like top rope belaying, the grab and slide method. Look dude, when it comes down to it, a grigri is just a fancy tubular device, they can and have failed; bad belay technique with a grigri is just as dangerous as it is with a tubular device. Aug 13, 2024 · Every assisted belay device has compromises, but the Pinch has the correct alchemy of characteristics for me. Most devices (except possibly the Pivot) don't lower well in guide mode I am quite light (~55 kg) and frequently belay people heavier than I am. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. learn the techniques to belay properly heavy climbers rather than rely on devices Right, screw belay devices, a good hip belay is still the best. At a Glance. Overall, the few extra dollars for a device with a top belay mode is worth it should you ever want to get into other things. Great for going down, a bit inconvenient as a belay device (bight through the small end) but it works. the gri gri really adds a lot of weight - too much imo if you're doing class 3 However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. For the price, this device is a great value. Neither of them. The screwgate snapped during the fall and went flying, we assume it was crossloaded at the least. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. The optional class is $30-$60 (but comes with a temporary membership) I settled on the Dome earlier this year after a bunch of research. We prefer the beefier construction over the Mega Jul. A friend owns one and I have used it a couple of times. lighter than an atc, locks like a gri gri, can rapel like an atc. com Apr 27, 2021 · Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso; Black Diamond ATC-XP; How to Choose the Best Belay Device for Your Needs. I like the assisted breaking and it makes me feel a bit safer as a belayer if something were to happen (rock fall, for example), b Standard Grigri. When I teach people to belay I always have them learn on an ATC as I’ve seen too many climbers depending on the assisted braking of other devices, leading them to do unsafe things like take their hands off the brake strand without tying off the belay. If you have any of them, there’s no need to throw it away for something else. (You can also compare the GriGri and ATC to other top belay devices in our belay device buying guide. Gloves only for aid or FA. Sep 15, 2020 · Belay devices drop up and down during belaying and can often become cross-loaded. Essentially, Petzl has said the Neox is a specialized belay device for single pitch use, not a replacement for Gri Gri in all use cases. The grigri is the most common, but also the most expensive option. Both belay devices should be fine over time you’ll get used to the belay difference… If you really want it to feel different you could try an ATC Alpine… but their intended use is 8. FWIW I use my grigri for almost everything and I usually don't carry a second device. Advantage: your partner gets to learn to belay in a safe manner that will transfer to other belay devices, unlike a GriGri or similar which requires device specific techniques. My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes. This thing looks rad. I fell 45 feet and broke my back in 7 places. Another climber ran to their aid and attached another belay device on the brake strand to lower the climber. vrbo znmp xmjvml zyscc lgtjon yfu tnvz utbgqcnes ppx dnjf dxcenlr nlxcerf rtpr vyhghi ercxew